Sunday, November 30, 2008

Im Not So Ashamed This Year




I spent a few days up in Seattle visiting my son, Haydn, and pretty much just hanging out. We did a couple touristy things and ate lots of sushi and hot dogs (not all at the same time!)

We watched horror flicks and made pies for Thanksgiving. I read the new novel out about Daniel Boone - my great American Hero. The only hero Ive ever had. Why am I always attracted to escape artists and dreamers!!!!!! Well, I'm too busy to dissect that one, but its probably pretty obvious to anyone who knows anything about my life!

Not being much of a Thanksgiving kind of person (it all seems so redundant to me), I was thankful for a great many things this year. My son, the lovely ladies and gentlemen who support my business, the friends who have given me support when I was down, so many more things that I just cant write down at the moment!

I forgave the white man for exterminating the original citizens of this continent - not a damned thing I can do about it now anyway although Ive been deeply ashamed. (and my great American hero was partly to blame in his way) Whats done is done and I played no part in it- although Im sure I would have been no better at the time - who knows. I like to think not, but most of us as a species have been unconscious of our journey - our behaviour and history does like to repeat itself, does it not.

I hemmed Haydns' new drapes, cooked, baked, drank, did the mom thing, visited his Friends, had a huge and amazing thanksgiving dinner - thank you, Aleah! That was the best turkey I have ever had!!!

There was much to be thankful for, even in this economy. Maybe even because of it. I feel it is very important to purchase nice things for oneself when one can and there is nothing wrong with having lots of money.....but the over consumption just had to give. It will be interesting to see what people do for Christmas this year. I gave up on fancy presents years ago. I'm sure we will see lots of creativity now! And that, I'm thankful for as well!

kc.costumecouture@gamil.com

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

The Joy Of Thimble



I hate thimbles. I hate hand sewing with anything on my fingers. I prefer the feel of that needle on my skin. Its part of the fun. I can sew faster and with more efficiency without a piece of cumbersome metal or leather or whatever the finger protection method of the day is. I can manipulate the fabric or the trim or the thread. I am one with my needle and thread.

But the downside of this thrill of the needle is that my fingers get ripped to shreds. There is rarely a day that goes by that I dont have ripped finger tips.
Ive learned to live with it. My hands are so torn and burned by irons and glue guns, and sewing tools, that it will take several lifetimes before I can ever audition for the job of hand model.

I equate sewing with a thimble as one would with the necessity of wearing a helmet when on a bike or motorcycle. Helmets suck. Period. I mean, really ......have you ever worn one????? But they keep us safer.

(I was going to compare thimble sewing with wearing a condom during sex, but I thought I'd better quit while Im ahead.)

Ive tried every kind of thimble on the market. I hate them all. The metal, the leather, the glue on dots, the wraparounds - they slow me down. They make me crazy. I cant feel a thing. I sew without one. I take my chances. My fingers are trashed. I sew with abandon........

And then one day I walked into Britex and there before me was the thimble that changed my life.

I can sew with this rubber silicone thimble. I can somewhat feel the pressure of the needle. Im not annoyed, or slowed down very much. And the darned thing stays on. (you know what Im talking about - wink wink) So far, the needle has not penetrated my skin. No blood has flowed in weeks. I only have a little cut on my index finger - and who the hell knows where that came from - not from a needle!

They are so pretty! They come in several sizes and a bunch of colors. I love them so much that Im going to buy a bunch of them, line them up, and gaze adoringly at them. Just because..........
I think Im in love.

You can buy them at Britex, or:
craftconn.com
quiltbus.com


kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Custom Ordering Section On Etsy



I now have a Custom Only section up on my etsy store!

This way, you can go to this section and order what you like - we will discuss what color(s) and size you need and I will have all your info in one place.
Easier for you I hope - and easier for me!

Ive got the Fluffie Rufflie Dance Pants, Fluffie Pantaloons, Leg Ruffles, and a wedding dress. I'll have Sampants and Garter shorts next. This way, if I dont have something for immediate sale, you can go ahead and order it without wondering if Im ever going to get something posted in your size. The wait is always longer with custom orders, but at least you are getting what you need!

XXX

http://www.kathleencrowley.etsy.com

Friday, November 7, 2008

STRIPES


Ive been hoarding a little stash of fabric (some I actually just found) for when things settle down and I can focus on new stuff again.

Let me know if there is something you would like made out of this. First come first serve.
There isnt a lot of this - enough for a few ruffles - maybe sampants?

Most are 1" stripes - very wide
The red and white is a heavy cotton lycra and would work for the Fluffie Rufflie Dance Pants or Sampants
The red and off white is a little sparklie and could worlk for sampants
All would work for skirts and ruffles and bum ruffles


Contact me at kathleen.crowley'at'yahoo.com

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Fairy Godmother




It took me around 12 hours to make this outfit. Give or take an hour or two - I had to jump up and down quite a lot. I also had to think a bit on how some of this was going to go together. This is the end of my work in progress dress to wear as godmother to baby Declan.

I had originally copied this pattern from the original that someone let me borrow once. I had few directions and knew that I was going to have to tweak this in order to make it fit right. I used an inexpensive poly stretch pinstripe that worked out pretty well. I would have rather used a nice wool blend, but I had 0 time to shop for this and used what I had. I also had no time for a mock up - but knowing what I know about these old patterns and patterns in general, I added seam allowance at all seams and because I'm 5'11", I added 4 extra inches to the skirt and 2 extra inches to the peplum just in case. I made the skirt fuller and I also dropped the waist an inch because even though I am fairly short waisted, it would have looked really odd to have such a short waist and such long legs - despite that this is how models are drawn on these pattern jackets.

I reinforced the bodice at the bust esp. because I was using a stretch fabric. I dropped the neckline about 2 inches so that it wouldn't look so matronly - which actually turned out looking more like the pattern illustration than if I had left it alone (tip for everyone - the necklines usually always have to be dropped to look more flattering - unless you are into the matronly look)

The outfit went together very easily once I fitted it to myself. I did have to take in the waist a lot more than I had estimated because of the stretch factor, but I'm glad I cut it a little big anyway - because when in a hurry, more is better. You can always take it in or hem it up. I also added steel boning to the front and back in the darts because it kept the waistline from bunching (and I was afraid that since I did not flat line the bodice, this might be the case) You can always use that nylon boning, but I dont like it.

I ended up binding the hem, sleeves and peplum with strips of bias binding that I cut from the same fabric. This went very quickly for me - much quicker than the hand hemming that I would have done - and it gave a nice, modern, finished look.

I also made the front of the skirt shorter - under the knee - and left the back long. I thought this was the most modern and flattering rendition of a vintage look.

I added a hook and a velvet bow at the neck. I threw on some little vintage buttons at the sleeve and bodice - and voila! It didnt look half bad. I even serged all the inside seams and made it nice which is something I dont always do on my own stuff.

Im really not suffering from jaundice. I tweaked these photos because my camera wasnt going to show any detail otherwise!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Hail Obama


I wasn't prepared for the landslide election last night. I thought it was a joke as my friend Ginny and I sat in a bar after wandering around Valencia St. window shopping and eating Indian food. We were two of about 6 people sitting in front of a huge screen - and as we downed our shots of whiskey in anticipation, the numbers came in and we had a historical and monumental experience before we knew it! I thought we would have a few hours of gut wrenching anxiety first!

Well, the fight has just begun.
So much damage has been done in the last 8 years.
So much unnecessary fear and drama and death.
Obama is now going to be told what he can and cannot do-
His hands will be tied and the people who actually run the world will still call the shots.

But Fucking Hell - change happened. America showed how bad we have been feeling. Now there is at least hope. Youth got up and did something and told the powers that be what for. And centuries of wounds can now start healing. That means more to me than anything. Maybe we wont be made so fun of now. Maybe we have shown that we are not a nation of idiots. The old is dying away. And now there is a road open for some positive change.
I think most of us can breathe a little easier now. At least it is going to be 4 very interesting years ahead. Fingers crossed that some of this reign of utter stupidity and devastation can be be reversed.

I took this photo at Napper Tandy last night.


kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Saturday, November 1, 2008

Time For Me Today




I must sew only for myself today. Im making this for my Fairie Godmother outfit tomorrow. I have it cut out and I didnt make a mock up first like I always scold people to do.

See.......Im just as bad as everyone else when it comes to making myself something because WHO HAS THE TIME for all the little steps involved!!!!!!!!!!!
LOL!

I will say, though, that I cut it a little bigger for extra seam allowance and swing in the skirt. I also wanted the peplum to look like the illustration, so I cut the pieces wider. I also want the front bodice to be a little lower at the top near the neck. So we'll see..........

I'll post a pic if it turns out!

Friday, October 31, 2008

Halloween Treasure


Some days are pure magic.
I found a score of a fabric treasure today.
Ive been searching all over for just this amount.
Not the bazillions of yards Id need to buy - not ready for that yet.
Soon, though.
It was like the gods of Halloween time
were saying " That Kathleen had such a crap Halloween
Last Year - we will throw her a bone to make up for it."

And funny thing.......Annie Lenox is singing "Thorn In My Side".
Its perfect.

Gosh. I remember dancing wildly to that song in 1985 (think it was 85 - so long ago now) with a huge bottle of vodka in my front yard. No wonder the neighbors hated me. I would have hated me. I think I did hate me. Thank the gods above that those days are over!

Free with the spirits guiding one is like being the wind ..........

At least today.

Happy Halloween everyone!
XX

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Big Top Magazine




KSea Flux from Big Top Magazine came to my studio and interviewed me one day. He is intelligent, adorable, and charming and on to something big! Plus he and his editors made me sound coherent while all hopped up on cold medicine! (not an easy task!)

Of course, I'm flattered and I'm so happy to be out there in the cyber world even more.....but I really like Big Top Magazine's format. I think much can be accomplished here and I urge everyone to support his team in their endeavors to bring more exposure of the Creative out into the world!

kc.costumecouture@gamil.com

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Good Things Come To Those Who Wait


And Ive been waiting for a trip to Britex.

I was supposed to be working on my Dicken's outfit today, but then Lynne came down to the shop to discuss all the fab things we've been talking about making........and ended up playing hookie and shopping downtown.

Britex. I love it. Some don't. They cant believe the prices. I cant believe one would complain. I love it there. I would curl up in a bolt of boiled wool and hide out if I could. If you sew, how could you NOT love Britex? I would run through the aisles and drape myself with all the hard to find pretty materials and then take pictures of myself being an idiot. But I don't. And if you are a serious shopper, then they will take you seriously. Don't ask stupid questions. (Save that for Discount Fabrics - my all time favorite hated question was "how much fabric do you need to make curtains?")

Anyway, we came back with a stash so heavy our arms were hurting!
Jackets and skirts and pants, Oh My!

I'll be very busy this winter and up to my neck in lovely wools. I'll be using some vintage patterns as the base for her ensemble. Am I in heaven?

Oh Yeah!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Dickens Costume


I woke up this morning with my now rare sinus headachie migrainie thing that makes me have to stay in bed or throw up. But it got better and I went to work - because thats how I am. But I decided to take it easy today and I'll work on my Dicken's outfit that Ive been trying to make for the last 5 years or so. Its all about me today and the rest of you will have to wait.

And I dont mean that in a mean, nasty wretched way. I just really need to make myself something.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Update


I finally got a new little camera the other day, so I threw some things on Molly and had her model for me again. She got to show off her new glasses and I got some new things posted up on etsy that had been sitting here for a while.

This top is a prototype. I think its really cute, but I need to work on it a bit more before I make them to sell.

Today is my last day to get things finished before I ship off for Halloween gigs and parties.

The rest of my orders will follow. And deargodinheaven - its going to be Hexmas soon. Didnt we just have that?

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

A Smell Like No Other

I love everything about Lynne's garden - even this:



A smell like no other when in bloom. Rotting Carrion. About as bad as when my last neighbors left a box of rotting meat under my bathroom window and I had no idea where the stench was coming from. Almost as bad as the morgue at the hospital I once worked at. Almost as bad as the back alley of the mortuary on Green Street that I had to pass through daily for 6 years..........but this is nature. And now that I know where the smell is coming from, I think its pretty funny! The little one in the yard next door doesnt smell. So it must be a maturity thing. It must ripen each year like a fine wine. Or like an old man who wont bathe.
And it doesnt really last that long.......just long enough to attract flies and bees and long enough to confuse us!

The Last Good Days In Lynne's Garden




I think Yesterday was probably the last nice Indian Summer day we'll have til next year. Oh, we might have another good day before the weather gets really chilly, but it wont be the same temperature, the same light, the same vibe. And Im feeling a little sad because I more than likely wont be here everyday like Ive been for the last two years. Time to move on and find a live/work where I can cook and enjoy my cat before she kicks the bucket and work til 5 in the morning if I have to without bothering anyone.

Thats just how I like it. I dont know when I started being the reclusive creative person that I am today....but it doesnt matter. It is what it is and Im happy. I would make stuff 24/7 if I didnt need to sleep. I feel there will never be enough time in my life to make all the things that I want to. This really bothers me sometimes when I think about it. It bothers me that I wont know all the secrets of mankind's past buried under the earth either. So the race is on to make stuff and know stuff before I die.

I also want to learn the secrets of photo shop and the french language before I die also, but that may be asking a bit too much.

So I'll enjoy Lynne's little oasis in The City with her amazing view of downtown and the Bay Bridge and be grateful that Ive been able to have a little respite before I head out into the world again. She's been a good friend.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Sunday, October 12, 2008

The Heat Is On

For all of you who are sweating bullets about your Halloween costumes - Im in the midst of sewing them up and shipping them out this week.

If I dont answer your emails, its because Im sewing my little fingers to the bone!

And so are my magical elves!

We wont let you down, but the race is on! Its that jolly time of the year!



Here is a photo of the lovely Collette Todorov performing at the Huckleberry Fair up in Oregon. She escaped the din of the city (even though she was living on a boat) and moved up North to Hood River for a better life. A former FatChanceBellyDance menber, she is now spreading the ATS word!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

kathleen.crowley.etsy.com

Saturday, October 11, 2008

White Light Please


This poor little girl was in a head on car collision last week and lost her parents. She is in critical condition up in Seattle and has traumatic head injuries. Recovery may be very slow. Her mother had a bad feeling about the trip, but they went anyway.

If you can, put white light around this girl, say a prayer, or just envision her well. wish her a speedy recovery. I think she is still needed in the world

sketch: Virginia Kirsch
kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Friday, October 10, 2008

What I Want For Christmas


Im nearing the end of an era for myself. I am in a situation where my building has been sold and now the tenants are up in arms and ready for a fight. Ive done this so many times. Ever since moving to San Francisco 20 years ago, I have had problems with landlords and bad room mates, horrific rents, ceilings falling down around me - you name it......I never had problems like this before I moved here. I suspect my luck will go back to good once I leave.

Not that I havnt had a blast and had HUGE and AMAZING and FABULOUS things happen to me while Ive been here. I have no regrets.

But I am sick of the fight. So I will be searching for a home that I can afford and have a space to work. Im in no hurry. If its meant to be that I stay in the city, then I will. But what I really want right now is out.

I dream of farther North to a little town with old bordellos and victorian charm.

If anyone hears of something affordable (dont all laugh at once, now!) where I can be productive and peacefull all at the same time, drop me a line!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

New Stuff On Etsy


Leg Ruffles
Arm Sleevelets
Garter Shorts
Lace
Lace
Lace

We're soooooo on trend!

kathleencrowley.etsy.com

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Get Thee Up On A Hill Ye Old Farts


This has nothing to do with fashion or style - just nostalgia and maybe a little stage costuming and props.
My friend Samantha suggested that I take the day off on Sunday. I don't take too many days off anymore for growing-a-business reasons. Plus I have orders that must be finished and out by Halloween. I had been sick all week, and wanted to do nothing that had anything to do with my current existence, so we went to Strictly Hardly Bluegrass in Golden Gate Park - a free weekend of country and bluegrass - and Gogol Bordello was playing later in the day. I thought if I got a little bluegrass in before Gogol, that would be cool, but when we saw the sea of people, we decided to get up to the Gogol stage and stake our claim.

Things have changed since the days of my early concert years. Maybe because it is a family event and an all day thing, but people had plots of land staked out with blankets and tarps in front of the stage. WTF? In front of the stage? When did this kind of thing happen? I felt like Rumpelstiltskin upon awakening.

Sam and I picked our way through the throng and staked our claim on a 12"X 5" piece of grass and then spread out on an abandoned sheet in front of us that ended up belonging to stage crew. WTF? Why would crew - or friends of crew want to be in the crowd? I was confused or misinformed. Is backstage not cool anymore? Did something happen I'm not aware of?

Unbeknownst to me, Elvis Costello was on before Gogol Bordello. Sam suffered through it, which made me feel old, but it was kinda funny. She had to explain GB to some guy my age - it was all very educational and I passed the celery sticks. This was a nice surprise because I really hadn't even known what was going on this weekend, but what kind of gave me the chills was that he started singing Friend Of The Devil which was sung in pretty much the same place in 1975 - I believe that 1975 was also maybe the only time I was at a concert at the park - of any magnitude. ( I purposefully never attended a Grateful Dead concert again) And of course, some friend of the crew was on the "crew sheet" with us and we were all fairly close to the stage so it looked like old Elvis was singing to us, which also made it all very surreal for me. (He was probably checking out some kids about to fall out of a tree) Could he have remembered my face from all those times I saw him perform in the old days? Haha. A sign that my time is up in SF and I must move on? Perhaps that one. I still think he's cute.

But what got weird is when some people wanted to stand up at the stage when he came on. The usual photographers wanted their 2 cents, the die hards wanted up and personal. I would have gone up too, but the old farts on their chairs and tarps started throwing food and garbage at the people standing up. Security made everyone sit down. Sam and I stared at each other in amazement. What planet are we on? Who are these old out of shape farts and why are they here in their folding chairs in front of a stage? This isn't the beach! Don't people stand in front of the stage anymore? Do they have a clue who is coming next? Get thee up on a hill ye old farts. Get thee away. Thou dost embarrass my generation.

So my nostalgia trip was over and we rushed the stage for Gogol. The old farts were either trampled or carried away to lie down and dream of a Jimmy Buffet concert.

We knew the front of the stage wasn't going to work out for us. But we had to try. Samantha is very strong, but she and I just couldn't hold back the surge of humanity bearing down on us. It was fabulous for a couple songs. Just like punk rock back in the day and I got to go crazy for a while. Then, while holding back the sea of humanity, I started screaming in my head......."oh God! My knees! There go my knees!" Some Russian guy was holding onto Sam's fresh tattoo, so we got out of there and danced and jumped up and down on the sidelines til I made myself sick.

And a good day was had by all.
Now back to work......

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Saturday, October 4, 2008

Samantha At The FCBD Studio




Thursday, 9th of October, Samantha will be teaching Tribal Fusion combos at the Fat Chance Belly Dance studio, San Francisco

Samantha Hasthorpe will discuss the art of Tribal Fusion through practicing short, distinctive, and creative combinations with the elegance, flair, and attitude stylistic of FatChanceBellyDance



Contact fcbd@earthlink.net to book



visit snakecharmahsam.co.uk for Samantha



She will also be performing with guests at the Bollyhood Cafe on October 10th
3372 19th st. @ mission st., SF

Doors open at 8pm
Show at 9pm
$5-10 sliding scale

For details and tickets contact Amar @ dj@slounamar.com

Its a great little venue
Sam is here for a short time
She is an amazing dancer and
The nicest person you
Could Know
Go
Go
Go

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Samantha At The FCBD Studio

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Quality Vs Quantity



I don't know how it ended up that I make so many pants. I shall blame it all on Samantha Hasthorpe (Emanuel) who needed a new pair of dance pants. I had a bin of lace lying around and we dug in, came up with a couple items and helped carry out the trend of ruffles and lace.

It was a fluke. And I'm happy and grateful for it. My garments have been worn all over the world. Ive even got the Fluffie Rufflies on a calendar. (thank you, Sam!)

Since then It was on to stripie pants - The fabric made by serging lots of strips of fabric together. This all started because I couldnt find the fabric I wanted to use. Ive planned to make more, but never got around to it. The price is prohibitive, but if someone wants something bad enough...just contact me.

And then Sampants and Fluffie Pantaloons and Leg Ruffles. Not in that order.

Ive got lots of other ideas, but quality is very important to me, and I would rather have nice, more expensive items made one or a few at a time, rather than do mass quantities of merchandise - it is hard to keep the quality up when you cant be there to oversee the work. Ive tried to do small lots of Sampants and had to do some over. I am still small potatoes and its easy to get overwhelmed with so many orders. So for now, a few at a time. Maybe one day if this evolves in that direction, I can grow. But for now:

Quality verses quantity.

And Fit,fit,fit!!!!!!!

This is a photo of Rachel Brice wearing the striped pants I made for her - and as far as I know, they are still holding strong!


kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Antique Velvet





I'm kind of stumped about the velvet on the Victorian bodice. It was taken such good care of - it was living in a museum archive in England and then returned and wrapped in acid free paper. It was part of a family collection and has made its way into my studio so that I can touch it and treasure it for a couple weeks before it makes its way back home. It was the ugly duckling of the collection, and so it was much more expendable should something go wrong. We even thought about turning it into a dance vest, but it seems a shame to wreck it, so I'll just make one from scratch.

It looks almost new. I checked it out carefully to see if maybe someone had recovered it, but the threads and stitching and backing look period. Someone obviously at some point tried to turn it into something else - added newer trim and some kind of red wool facing. But if it were for a show or a play, I doubt they would have gone to so much trouble to replace the outer cover and the purple silk. They more than likely wouldn't have replaced that boning and front inner padding so deliberately.

One of my most favorite things to do is to check out the innards of garments and see how they were put together. I remember once when a friend of mine was modeling for one of Thierry Mugler's trunks shows back in the day. I got to inspect some of his suits. There is a reason why some things cost an arm and a leg................sheer genius. Another friend of mine ended up making some clothes for him, so it was fun to discuss craftsmanship. I hope these skills become more appreciated again one day. Well, one can hope.

So it is always fun for me to check things out up close and personal. And I'm hoping that I can go overseas next year and visit my friend and wallow in the joy of opening up the trunks of pristine Regency and Victoriana that are waiting for a new home. Another museum perhaps? I hope I can get there first!

If anyone reading this has any comments on the condition of this bodice and if this is the original velvet or not, feel free to comment!! Ive just never seen any old velvet in such pristine condition before! Ive never held it in my hands!

Kc.costumecouture@gamil.com

Monday, September 29, 2008

Vintage Patterns....And Why They Dont Turn out


I subscribe and sometimes comment on Sew Retro. I think its a fabulous blog because its all about people using and making things out of vintage/retro patterns. And I think its fascinating how these garments turn out.

Long ago, in a Galaxy far, far away, I recall racks and racks of vintage house dresses in every conceivable size and style. I remember when the vintage stores on Broadway had little stores with walls draped with vintage velvet and lace dresses. I remember going to my favorite long gone boutique and buying a burgundy rayon velvet dress from the 40's for $40. That was a lot of money back then - but it was for a first date kind of thing with my future ex husband.

That wouldn't happen today. The closest you could come to would be Torso Vintage around these parts. And the prices are phenomenally high. And Ive never seen a dress there that beat the one I purchased long ago.

But I digress. What I wanted to talk about is how I see a lot of postings about how the dresses/skirts/suits........don't turn out like the illustrations on the pattern packages.

What made me think back on all the dresses I used to find so easily is that many of them were handmade and probably looked like shit on the wearer. Women sewed a hellofalot more back in the day before mass production in China, and probably were a lot poorer - think the FIRST depression - or had home ec training. (does anyone even know what that is anymore?)

My favorite late 80's - early 90's look was a vintage house dress and army boots. That's kinda still around, and coming back strong soon, but instead of the vintage knock off dresses, I was wearing the crumbling vintage dresses with that great jersey and aged cotton that is hard to find anymore. And the dresses were all handmade and ill fitting.

Part of the reason that outfits don't look like the pattern illustration is of course, the artists rendering of the style. Their job is to make the pattern sellable. Often the illustration is an exaggeration. And just like today, the body proportions are not correct.

Also, we forget that these garments were meant to be worn with the undergarments of the day. Those full skirts in the pattern need a crinoline or two and a girdle. Maybe a cone bra. They wont look the same without them.

Also, the pattern often has to be manipulated to look like the illustration. If you are not a size 0 like the pattern shows, you have to somehow turn that pattern into a size whatever you are and make it look right. Sleeves might have to be made wider or lengthened. Skirt fullness added, darts moved, bodices lengthened.

And all this requires a little skill that many a new modern sewer doesn't have.

So people get disappointed and give up. And that's a shame. But it takes patience to learn skills. And time. Mock ups should be made of the pattern first.

Right now, I'm making some vintage suit mock ups for a friend and then we will work out the details and the fit problems first. It takes time. Time = money. This is why it isn't cheap to make good clothes. But if you take your time to think things through and learn from the mistakes made along the way and take risks and do your historical research of the garment style you are making.......success will eventually be yours.

Sewing isn't easy.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

The Love Of My Life


No, not my ex husband who used to be the owner of this tv. But this tv. I love it. This and my son were the best things to come out of a bad union. And in February, all will be lost. My old life will die along with my 1970's portable black and white tv.

Sure, I could fork out the dough for the converter that will become just more useless trash one day and keep her going for a few more years. I might do it. But it would almost be like putting your loved one on life support when they could go at any minute anyway. Tough decision.

End of an era.
Black and white.
I don't even really like watching tv in color.
I guess I don't care about it, really.
I love all the shades of gray
I love the subtle hues
I love the shadows
I love that I can only get a few channels
I prefer M*sh in b&w.
Friends is so much more tolerable in B&W
I don't need to see the color of George Kastanza's bald head
The news is more surreal

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Sam and Oscar Got Hitched








Well, Sam and Oscar got hitched this Saturday and I was so sad that I couldn't be there. But I was there in spirit. The plane fares were just too prohibitive and I had another wedding to finish and orders to get out. I heard it was quite the party, though and I know I missed a wonderful day!

I made her a steampunk themed outfit inspired by Gaultier's pirate show last season. I took her measurements while she was here in town last. Then I made a mock up of the jacket and corset top, sent it to England where she could try it on and have her mother make notes and pin where there were changes/alterations to be made. They sent it back and I relied on my judgement and the good opinions of my friends and assistants who know her to get the outfit made up for the big day.

Along with the jacket and corset blouse, I made her a striped bustlie skirt with a blue and gray tulle petticoat underneath to coordinate with her blue silk shantung jacket. The corset blouse was of a soft striped silk. The jacket was wrapped at the waist and fastened with two huge brass buckles that I had been saving for something just like this!

I know she had to have some alterations done, but I didnt think they were extensive - and to be expected with no fittings whatsoever. In fact, I tried it on my assistant Molly who was fortunately about the same size. As the photo shows, she was gorgeous and glowing and looks amazing!

Awwwwwwwww......

She ordered her hat from Topsy Turvy Design. I ADORE her hats!!!!!!!!!!!!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com
kathleencrowley.etsy.com