Friday, October 31, 2008

Halloween Treasure


Some days are pure magic.
I found a score of a fabric treasure today.
Ive been searching all over for just this amount.
Not the bazillions of yards Id need to buy - not ready for that yet.
Soon, though.
It was like the gods of Halloween time
were saying " That Kathleen had such a crap Halloween
Last Year - we will throw her a bone to make up for it."

And funny thing.......Annie Lenox is singing "Thorn In My Side".
Its perfect.

Gosh. I remember dancing wildly to that song in 1985 (think it was 85 - so long ago now) with a huge bottle of vodka in my front yard. No wonder the neighbors hated me. I would have hated me. I think I did hate me. Thank the gods above that those days are over!

Free with the spirits guiding one is like being the wind ..........

At least today.

Happy Halloween everyone!
XX

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Big Top Magazine




KSea Flux from Big Top Magazine came to my studio and interviewed me one day. He is intelligent, adorable, and charming and on to something big! Plus he and his editors made me sound coherent while all hopped up on cold medicine! (not an easy task!)

Of course, I'm flattered and I'm so happy to be out there in the cyber world even more.....but I really like Big Top Magazine's format. I think much can be accomplished here and I urge everyone to support his team in their endeavors to bring more exposure of the Creative out into the world!

kc.costumecouture@gamil.com

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Good Things Come To Those Who Wait


And Ive been waiting for a trip to Britex.

I was supposed to be working on my Dicken's outfit today, but then Lynne came down to the shop to discuss all the fab things we've been talking about making........and ended up playing hookie and shopping downtown.

Britex. I love it. Some don't. They cant believe the prices. I cant believe one would complain. I love it there. I would curl up in a bolt of boiled wool and hide out if I could. If you sew, how could you NOT love Britex? I would run through the aisles and drape myself with all the hard to find pretty materials and then take pictures of myself being an idiot. But I don't. And if you are a serious shopper, then they will take you seriously. Don't ask stupid questions. (Save that for Discount Fabrics - my all time favorite hated question was "how much fabric do you need to make curtains?")

Anyway, we came back with a stash so heavy our arms were hurting!
Jackets and skirts and pants, Oh My!

I'll be very busy this winter and up to my neck in lovely wools. I'll be using some vintage patterns as the base for her ensemble. Am I in heaven?

Oh Yeah!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Dickens Costume


I woke up this morning with my now rare sinus headachie migrainie thing that makes me have to stay in bed or throw up. But it got better and I went to work - because thats how I am. But I decided to take it easy today and I'll work on my Dicken's outfit that Ive been trying to make for the last 5 years or so. Its all about me today and the rest of you will have to wait.

And I dont mean that in a mean, nasty wretched way. I just really need to make myself something.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Update


I finally got a new little camera the other day, so I threw some things on Molly and had her model for me again. She got to show off her new glasses and I got some new things posted up on etsy that had been sitting here for a while.

This top is a prototype. I think its really cute, but I need to work on it a bit more before I make them to sell.

Today is my last day to get things finished before I ship off for Halloween gigs and parties.

The rest of my orders will follow. And deargodinheaven - its going to be Hexmas soon. Didnt we just have that?

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

A Smell Like No Other

I love everything about Lynne's garden - even this:



A smell like no other when in bloom. Rotting Carrion. About as bad as when my last neighbors left a box of rotting meat under my bathroom window and I had no idea where the stench was coming from. Almost as bad as the morgue at the hospital I once worked at. Almost as bad as the back alley of the mortuary on Green Street that I had to pass through daily for 6 years..........but this is nature. And now that I know where the smell is coming from, I think its pretty funny! The little one in the yard next door doesnt smell. So it must be a maturity thing. It must ripen each year like a fine wine. Or like an old man who wont bathe.
And it doesnt really last that long.......just long enough to attract flies and bees and long enough to confuse us!

The Last Good Days In Lynne's Garden




I think Yesterday was probably the last nice Indian Summer day we'll have til next year. Oh, we might have another good day before the weather gets really chilly, but it wont be the same temperature, the same light, the same vibe. And Im feeling a little sad because I more than likely wont be here everyday like Ive been for the last two years. Time to move on and find a live/work where I can cook and enjoy my cat before she kicks the bucket and work til 5 in the morning if I have to without bothering anyone.

Thats just how I like it. I dont know when I started being the reclusive creative person that I am today....but it doesnt matter. It is what it is and Im happy. I would make stuff 24/7 if I didnt need to sleep. I feel there will never be enough time in my life to make all the things that I want to. This really bothers me sometimes when I think about it. It bothers me that I wont know all the secrets of mankind's past buried under the earth either. So the race is on to make stuff and know stuff before I die.

I also want to learn the secrets of photo shop and the french language before I die also, but that may be asking a bit too much.

So I'll enjoy Lynne's little oasis in The City with her amazing view of downtown and the Bay Bridge and be grateful that Ive been able to have a little respite before I head out into the world again. She's been a good friend.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Sunday, October 12, 2008

The Heat Is On

For all of you who are sweating bullets about your Halloween costumes - Im in the midst of sewing them up and shipping them out this week.

If I dont answer your emails, its because Im sewing my little fingers to the bone!

And so are my magical elves!

We wont let you down, but the race is on! Its that jolly time of the year!



Here is a photo of the lovely Collette Todorov performing at the Huckleberry Fair up in Oregon. She escaped the din of the city (even though she was living on a boat) and moved up North to Hood River for a better life. A former FatChanceBellyDance menber, she is now spreading the ATS word!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

kathleen.crowley.etsy.com

Saturday, October 11, 2008

White Light Please


This poor little girl was in a head on car collision last week and lost her parents. She is in critical condition up in Seattle and has traumatic head injuries. Recovery may be very slow. Her mother had a bad feeling about the trip, but they went anyway.

If you can, put white light around this girl, say a prayer, or just envision her well. wish her a speedy recovery. I think she is still needed in the world

sketch: Virginia Kirsch
kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Friday, October 10, 2008

What I Want For Christmas


Im nearing the end of an era for myself. I am in a situation where my building has been sold and now the tenants are up in arms and ready for a fight. Ive done this so many times. Ever since moving to San Francisco 20 years ago, I have had problems with landlords and bad room mates, horrific rents, ceilings falling down around me - you name it......I never had problems like this before I moved here. I suspect my luck will go back to good once I leave.

Not that I havnt had a blast and had HUGE and AMAZING and FABULOUS things happen to me while Ive been here. I have no regrets.

But I am sick of the fight. So I will be searching for a home that I can afford and have a space to work. Im in no hurry. If its meant to be that I stay in the city, then I will. But what I really want right now is out.

I dream of farther North to a little town with old bordellos and victorian charm.

If anyone hears of something affordable (dont all laugh at once, now!) where I can be productive and peacefull all at the same time, drop me a line!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

New Stuff On Etsy


Leg Ruffles
Arm Sleevelets
Garter Shorts
Lace
Lace
Lace

We're soooooo on trend!

kathleencrowley.etsy.com

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Get Thee Up On A Hill Ye Old Farts


This has nothing to do with fashion or style - just nostalgia and maybe a little stage costuming and props.
My friend Samantha suggested that I take the day off on Sunday. I don't take too many days off anymore for growing-a-business reasons. Plus I have orders that must be finished and out by Halloween. I had been sick all week, and wanted to do nothing that had anything to do with my current existence, so we went to Strictly Hardly Bluegrass in Golden Gate Park - a free weekend of country and bluegrass - and Gogol Bordello was playing later in the day. I thought if I got a little bluegrass in before Gogol, that would be cool, but when we saw the sea of people, we decided to get up to the Gogol stage and stake our claim.

Things have changed since the days of my early concert years. Maybe because it is a family event and an all day thing, but people had plots of land staked out with blankets and tarps in front of the stage. WTF? In front of the stage? When did this kind of thing happen? I felt like Rumpelstiltskin upon awakening.

Sam and I picked our way through the throng and staked our claim on a 12"X 5" piece of grass and then spread out on an abandoned sheet in front of us that ended up belonging to stage crew. WTF? Why would crew - or friends of crew want to be in the crowd? I was confused or misinformed. Is backstage not cool anymore? Did something happen I'm not aware of?

Unbeknownst to me, Elvis Costello was on before Gogol Bordello. Sam suffered through it, which made me feel old, but it was kinda funny. She had to explain GB to some guy my age - it was all very educational and I passed the celery sticks. This was a nice surprise because I really hadn't even known what was going on this weekend, but what kind of gave me the chills was that he started singing Friend Of The Devil which was sung in pretty much the same place in 1975 - I believe that 1975 was also maybe the only time I was at a concert at the park - of any magnitude. ( I purposefully never attended a Grateful Dead concert again) And of course, some friend of the crew was on the "crew sheet" with us and we were all fairly close to the stage so it looked like old Elvis was singing to us, which also made it all very surreal for me. (He was probably checking out some kids about to fall out of a tree) Could he have remembered my face from all those times I saw him perform in the old days? Haha. A sign that my time is up in SF and I must move on? Perhaps that one. I still think he's cute.

But what got weird is when some people wanted to stand up at the stage when he came on. The usual photographers wanted their 2 cents, the die hards wanted up and personal. I would have gone up too, but the old farts on their chairs and tarps started throwing food and garbage at the people standing up. Security made everyone sit down. Sam and I stared at each other in amazement. What planet are we on? Who are these old out of shape farts and why are they here in their folding chairs in front of a stage? This isn't the beach! Don't people stand in front of the stage anymore? Do they have a clue who is coming next? Get thee up on a hill ye old farts. Get thee away. Thou dost embarrass my generation.

So my nostalgia trip was over and we rushed the stage for Gogol. The old farts were either trampled or carried away to lie down and dream of a Jimmy Buffet concert.

We knew the front of the stage wasn't going to work out for us. But we had to try. Samantha is very strong, but she and I just couldn't hold back the surge of humanity bearing down on us. It was fabulous for a couple songs. Just like punk rock back in the day and I got to go crazy for a while. Then, while holding back the sea of humanity, I started screaming in my head......."oh God! My knees! There go my knees!" Some Russian guy was holding onto Sam's fresh tattoo, so we got out of there and danced and jumped up and down on the sidelines til I made myself sick.

And a good day was had by all.
Now back to work......

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Saturday, October 4, 2008

Samantha At The FCBD Studio




Thursday, 9th of October, Samantha will be teaching Tribal Fusion combos at the Fat Chance Belly Dance studio, San Francisco

Samantha Hasthorpe will discuss the art of Tribal Fusion through practicing short, distinctive, and creative combinations with the elegance, flair, and attitude stylistic of FatChanceBellyDance



Contact fcbd@earthlink.net to book



visit snakecharmahsam.co.uk for Samantha



She will also be performing with guests at the Bollyhood Cafe on October 10th
3372 19th st. @ mission st., SF

Doors open at 8pm
Show at 9pm
$5-10 sliding scale

For details and tickets contact Amar @ dj@slounamar.com

Its a great little venue
Sam is here for a short time
She is an amazing dancer and
The nicest person you
Could Know
Go
Go
Go

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Samantha At The FCBD Studio

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Quality Vs Quantity



I don't know how it ended up that I make so many pants. I shall blame it all on Samantha Hasthorpe (Emanuel) who needed a new pair of dance pants. I had a bin of lace lying around and we dug in, came up with a couple items and helped carry out the trend of ruffles and lace.

It was a fluke. And I'm happy and grateful for it. My garments have been worn all over the world. Ive even got the Fluffie Rufflies on a calendar. (thank you, Sam!)

Since then It was on to stripie pants - The fabric made by serging lots of strips of fabric together. This all started because I couldnt find the fabric I wanted to use. Ive planned to make more, but never got around to it. The price is prohibitive, but if someone wants something bad enough...just contact me.

And then Sampants and Fluffie Pantaloons and Leg Ruffles. Not in that order.

Ive got lots of other ideas, but quality is very important to me, and I would rather have nice, more expensive items made one or a few at a time, rather than do mass quantities of merchandise - it is hard to keep the quality up when you cant be there to oversee the work. Ive tried to do small lots of Sampants and had to do some over. I am still small potatoes and its easy to get overwhelmed with so many orders. So for now, a few at a time. Maybe one day if this evolves in that direction, I can grow. But for now:

Quality verses quantity.

And Fit,fit,fit!!!!!!!

This is a photo of Rachel Brice wearing the striped pants I made for her - and as far as I know, they are still holding strong!


kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Antique Velvet





I'm kind of stumped about the velvet on the Victorian bodice. It was taken such good care of - it was living in a museum archive in England and then returned and wrapped in acid free paper. It was part of a family collection and has made its way into my studio so that I can touch it and treasure it for a couple weeks before it makes its way back home. It was the ugly duckling of the collection, and so it was much more expendable should something go wrong. We even thought about turning it into a dance vest, but it seems a shame to wreck it, so I'll just make one from scratch.

It looks almost new. I checked it out carefully to see if maybe someone had recovered it, but the threads and stitching and backing look period. Someone obviously at some point tried to turn it into something else - added newer trim and some kind of red wool facing. But if it were for a show or a play, I doubt they would have gone to so much trouble to replace the outer cover and the purple silk. They more than likely wouldn't have replaced that boning and front inner padding so deliberately.

One of my most favorite things to do is to check out the innards of garments and see how they were put together. I remember once when a friend of mine was modeling for one of Thierry Mugler's trunks shows back in the day. I got to inspect some of his suits. There is a reason why some things cost an arm and a leg................sheer genius. Another friend of mine ended up making some clothes for him, so it was fun to discuss craftsmanship. I hope these skills become more appreciated again one day. Well, one can hope.

So it is always fun for me to check things out up close and personal. And I'm hoping that I can go overseas next year and visit my friend and wallow in the joy of opening up the trunks of pristine Regency and Victoriana that are waiting for a new home. Another museum perhaps? I hope I can get there first!

If anyone reading this has any comments on the condition of this bodice and if this is the original velvet or not, feel free to comment!! Ive just never seen any old velvet in such pristine condition before! Ive never held it in my hands!

Kc.costumecouture@gamil.com

Monday, September 29, 2008

Vintage Patterns....And Why They Dont Turn out


I subscribe and sometimes comment on Sew Retro. I think its a fabulous blog because its all about people using and making things out of vintage/retro patterns. And I think its fascinating how these garments turn out.

Long ago, in a Galaxy far, far away, I recall racks and racks of vintage house dresses in every conceivable size and style. I remember when the vintage stores on Broadway had little stores with walls draped with vintage velvet and lace dresses. I remember going to my favorite long gone boutique and buying a burgundy rayon velvet dress from the 40's for $40. That was a lot of money back then - but it was for a first date kind of thing with my future ex husband.

That wouldn't happen today. The closest you could come to would be Torso Vintage around these parts. And the prices are phenomenally high. And Ive never seen a dress there that beat the one I purchased long ago.

But I digress. What I wanted to talk about is how I see a lot of postings about how the dresses/skirts/suits........don't turn out like the illustrations on the pattern packages.

What made me think back on all the dresses I used to find so easily is that many of them were handmade and probably looked like shit on the wearer. Women sewed a hellofalot more back in the day before mass production in China, and probably were a lot poorer - think the FIRST depression - or had home ec training. (does anyone even know what that is anymore?)

My favorite late 80's - early 90's look was a vintage house dress and army boots. That's kinda still around, and coming back strong soon, but instead of the vintage knock off dresses, I was wearing the crumbling vintage dresses with that great jersey and aged cotton that is hard to find anymore. And the dresses were all handmade and ill fitting.

Part of the reason that outfits don't look like the pattern illustration is of course, the artists rendering of the style. Their job is to make the pattern sellable. Often the illustration is an exaggeration. And just like today, the body proportions are not correct.

Also, we forget that these garments were meant to be worn with the undergarments of the day. Those full skirts in the pattern need a crinoline or two and a girdle. Maybe a cone bra. They wont look the same without them.

Also, the pattern often has to be manipulated to look like the illustration. If you are not a size 0 like the pattern shows, you have to somehow turn that pattern into a size whatever you are and make it look right. Sleeves might have to be made wider or lengthened. Skirt fullness added, darts moved, bodices lengthened.

And all this requires a little skill that many a new modern sewer doesn't have.

So people get disappointed and give up. And that's a shame. But it takes patience to learn skills. And time. Mock ups should be made of the pattern first.

Right now, I'm making some vintage suit mock ups for a friend and then we will work out the details and the fit problems first. It takes time. Time = money. This is why it isn't cheap to make good clothes. But if you take your time to think things through and learn from the mistakes made along the way and take risks and do your historical research of the garment style you are making.......success will eventually be yours.

Sewing isn't easy.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

The Love Of My Life


No, not my ex husband who used to be the owner of this tv. But this tv. I love it. This and my son were the best things to come out of a bad union. And in February, all will be lost. My old life will die along with my 1970's portable black and white tv.

Sure, I could fork out the dough for the converter that will become just more useless trash one day and keep her going for a few more years. I might do it. But it would almost be like putting your loved one on life support when they could go at any minute anyway. Tough decision.

End of an era.
Black and white.
I don't even really like watching tv in color.
I guess I don't care about it, really.
I love all the shades of gray
I love the subtle hues
I love the shadows
I love that I can only get a few channels
I prefer M*sh in b&w.
Friends is so much more tolerable in B&W
I don't need to see the color of George Kastanza's bald head
The news is more surreal

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Sam and Oscar Got Hitched








Well, Sam and Oscar got hitched this Saturday and I was so sad that I couldn't be there. But I was there in spirit. The plane fares were just too prohibitive and I had another wedding to finish and orders to get out. I heard it was quite the party, though and I know I missed a wonderful day!

I made her a steampunk themed outfit inspired by Gaultier's pirate show last season. I took her measurements while she was here in town last. Then I made a mock up of the jacket and corset top, sent it to England where she could try it on and have her mother make notes and pin where there were changes/alterations to be made. They sent it back and I relied on my judgement and the good opinions of my friends and assistants who know her to get the outfit made up for the big day.

Along with the jacket and corset blouse, I made her a striped bustlie skirt with a blue and gray tulle petticoat underneath to coordinate with her blue silk shantung jacket. The corset blouse was of a soft striped silk. The jacket was wrapped at the waist and fastened with two huge brass buckles that I had been saving for something just like this!

I know she had to have some alterations done, but I didnt think they were extensive - and to be expected with no fittings whatsoever. In fact, I tried it on my assistant Molly who was fortunately about the same size. As the photo shows, she was gorgeous and glowing and looks amazing!

Awwwwwwwww......

She ordered her hat from Topsy Turvy Design. I ADORE her hats!!!!!!!!!!!!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com
kathleencrowley.etsy.com

What is haute couture




Here is an article that I found today.


What is haute couture?

Literally translating as 'high' or even (in the OED) 'exalted' dressmaking, Haute Couture is a protected name that can be used only by firms meeting certain well-defined standards set by the Chambre de commerce et d'industrie de Paris. However, over time the term has also acquired a looser meaning which describes all high-fashion custom-fitted clothing.

Where did it start?

Despite haute couture's association with France, it was actually an Englishman, Charles Worth, born in humble Lincolnshire who was the 'father of haute couture'. He rose to fame in the 1860s when he relocated to Paris and started making rather fabulous outfits for Empress Eugenie, the wife of Napoleon III.

In the post-war period haute couture flourished again with the immensely popular appeal of Christian Dior's "New Look" in 1947. After years of sartorial scarcity, Dior's new designs featured rounded shoulders, a tiny cinched waist, and very full skirt celebrating ultra-femininity and opulence in women's fashion.

What's so special about it?


Superior fabrics, dyes and trimmings go hand-in-hand with exquisite workmanship to realise a designer's dream. A whole team of people will work on one garment, cutting, sewing and hand stitching details. Haute couture's offering of distinction in design and technique remains a compelling force, one even more potent when in many areas of the industry, quality has atrophied.

In our 'wear it once, throw it away' society, buying haute couture might be seen by the super-rich as an investment, akin with buying great art. It remains completely unaccountable to cost, but it's target audience hardly needs to reach for the price tag. There is also a veil of mystery surrounding haute couture: The women who regularly buy it do not advertise themselves, while the fashion houses will not reveal their client lists.

So who does buy it?


Traditionally, only wealthy private clients were able gain an audience with the fashion houses, never mind afford the clothes. Not everyone can fund their fashion addiction when the cost of dresses would bankrupt a small nation. Simply put, wearing haute couture is an aspirational symbol of power and prestige reserved for those for whom money is no object. The strange thing is that the some of the people buying to wear, as opposed to borrowing for public appearances (see Carla Bruni and any number of actresses on the red carpet), are the wives of Saudi Arabian billionaires whom no-one's ever heard of.

More significantly, the notoriety and prestige of haute couture fashion is actually part of a carefully executed business strategy. They have the unique ability to generate tremendous publicity for a design house - and that almost always leads to higher sales in the designer's ready-to-wear collections, which can often include simplified, more affordable versions of couture pieces. The more outrageous the piece, the more likely the front page newspaper splash. The luxury kudos also filters down to their cheaper products like cosmetics or perfume which are then sold to the masses, bringing in enormous piles of lovely cash. Which is the whole point really isn't it?

Le Sigh


I have not had much time to watch the NYC and London Fashion Weeks this time around. My last wedding dress for the year walked out the door this week and will soon be walking down the aisle. Hopefully I'll be able to catch up with all the pictures that will be floating around and get some inspiration. Here is one from Luella Barley from London Week. So far what I have seen has been still the 80's rehash, scallops, ruffles, severe sophistication, and sheer fabrics. Stella McCartney made some cute gym wear. W magazine is full of arm warmers and lacie arm wear.

Now the crunch is on to finish my other orders and get all purchases out the door by Saturday. I actually think I'll be able to accomplish this! Fingers crossed.

Everyone everywhere is screaming recession and so everyone everywhere is buying into it. What we are told is believed and so it creates reality. Everyone becomes fearful. If everyone is fearful we are easier to control. That's not rocket science. This sometimes makes me very sad of course, as I am affected. But creating will never go away and there will always be pretty things to lift our spirits. I hope I am always a part of that in some way.

I didn't wait for New Year's Day to make new resolutions this year. I just went ahead and jumped into going to the gym more now, which of course always gives me more energy and thus more ideas. My dear Friend Erling is going with me and that is keeping me motivated. I want to make some fun gym wear for myself so that I will be more inspired to go. Its all about the clothes, you know. And as I was soooooooooo disappointed by what is available in all the sports stores that I visited this summer, I want to show that you don't have to be ugly in the process. And why oh why is nothing cute to work out in made in larger sizes? I'm not huge, yet nothing looked good. Nothing. Nothing. Nothing.

Did I say Nothing?

A crippled little Mexican man came up to me the other day and asked me if I was German. Against my better judgement, I said "no". He asked where I'm from. I said "here". He said "you an awfully big lady!"

I wanted to kick him, but his cane was supporting his twisted frame. Obviously he wasn't brought up right and had no proper sense of boundaries, so I forgave him.


Le Sigh.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com
kathleencrowley.ety.com

Friday, September 12, 2008

Jasminas Wedding In Maui









Tribe was down for an unusually long time, so I thought the party was over and I was going to lose track of all my friends!

Imagine my delight when tribe went back up and I found these photos at kathleencrowleycostumecouture!

Jasmina and her boyfriend had me commission this dress a couple years ago when I met them at Tribal Fest 06.
Little did I know that this would be a wedding dress! I dont think they planned it that way, but Im so happy that they did!

The bride was stunning!
The dress is fabulous
if I do say so myself and can be ordered at:
kathleencrowley.etsy.com

For some reason, people like being naked under this dress!
I love it!
Of course, I can make you a beautiful little bias slip to wear under and you can then wear it in a church if you like!

Photo: Kinga
www.photosbykinga.com

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

The Bridesmaids were Drag Queens



At least some of them were.
Too bad this photo is so small.
Its the only one I got.
And it was too long ago to get one from the bride now.
The Groom was
Iggy Pops' drummer
Or sumpthin like that.
The old Enrique gang.
You know those music men.......
Hope everyone's happy now!

Hot Pink Silk Shantung
Wow!
And Jaina the Maid of Honor wore a tutu!

Thursday, September 11, 2008

vintage reconstruction


Megan Strahm was married this summer in a vintage gown that she purchased at Retrofit. The dress was a bit too big in the bodice. The underskirt full of holes at the hem. The outer skirt of tulle was ripped to shreds in one part, but the rest of the dress was perfect.

I took in the bodice about 2" and was able to do this with impecable hand sewing rather than take the zipper out and put it back in. Logic says that taking out the zipper might be the better solution for such an alteration, and on many a garment that may be so..... but the old fabric and lace could easily have been comprimised. They used little teeny tiny stitches back in the day. Unlike todays sloppy mass production and longer stitch lengths. It had several layers in the bodice, so with some deft stitchery I was able to keep it looking like I hadnt done a thing to it.

I cut off the lining along the bottom and hemmed it a little shorter thus losing the rips and tears.

And then I searched around town and even went to Lacis in Berkeley to see if I could find some vintage tulle to replace the tattered parts of the outer skirt. Couldnt find the right stuff at all and so where did I find the perfect solution? Some tulle at Darlenes on Mission st. It wasnt vintage, but it was close enough and nobody knew the difference.

We toyed with the idea of just ditching the skirt altogether and making a new one. But I and some friends who saw the dress figured that the old designers really knew how to enhance a woman's figure - and the line of the lace made the wearer look taller and leaner. I love saving these garments. Im glad we saved this one.

So her dress turned out perfect. It turned out that a friend of hers had just been at a wedding of the woman who's dress I had made from a family heirloom tablecloth and napkins. Im hoping to get a photo of that dress soon as it looked spectacular on the bride!

Well, dont they all look spectacular, but it does my heart proud to see these ladies beaming in things Ive made or made to fit.

Congratulations Megan!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Tuesday, September 9, 2008

WitchingHour



Half Moon Bay
Years ago now
Spooky Crafts and
Halloween bonfires
On the beach
Parties and dressup
Ditching the neighbors
At the Witching Hour
For hours of glee
And Mayhem

Photo:Moonalisa

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Autumn Colors



I saw this on ebay today and I almost swooned. These old gowns are spectacular! This pagoda style sleeve and the whole silhouette has been speaking to me of late. The colors of the dress say to me that summer is just about over. I guess I may actually attend Dicken's Faire this year as I am bound and determined to finish my costume finally after all these years. I am the classic example of the term "the cobblers children have no shoes". I get busier and busier and find less and less time for myself. But this must change. If there is a Dickens Faire this year, that is! Im so out of the loop! I'll finish it and wear it regardless!

Changes are a brewing though, I can tell....fall is almost here. We have finally been having our summer, but I see the fog rolling in over the city today and I am relieved. It was too hot. If we had a chance to get used to it, I'm sure it would be great. But with temperature drops on and off, it wipes us out.

Last month was very bizarre. Water, water everywhere flooding my business and making things hard and frustrating for the homeowner. Intense stuff all about. Water symbolizes the emotions and everything seemed out of hand. That's getting fixed.

I'm still loving all the lace and frills abounding in my life. It takes the edge off the hardness of modern life. Its all symbolic to me.

So with the cooler weather approaching and the need to escape modern life, I will concentrate on finishing the ever undone Dicken's outfit. And hopefully, my little southern civil war school marm dress will materialize as well. Part of the problem has been that my corsets don't fit me any longer and I need some new ones. So that has to be done first, and fortunately, I am so in the mood for some corset building!






These sleeves are so gorgeous! The cotton netting that I never see anymore. I have not really searched for it for a while and maybe Britex has it - I would love to make so many things out of it. I think sheers will be popular soon. And that will make me happy!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com