Monday, April 5, 2010

Salomes' Suitcase Trunk Sale!!!!!!!


Salome's Suitcase (my design collective) is having a Trunk Sale!
Bring your piggy bank!
Try on some clothes!
Peruse the finery and adornments!
When: Saturday, April 10th
Where: Minnerva's Anntenna
2886 16th st #B @ South Van Ness
San Francisco, Ca   1-6pm 

Photo: Black Lotus
Model: Sarah White
Hat: Medina Maitreya
Adornments and embellishments: Foolproof
Vests by Rosehips and Black Lotus Clothing (Not sure which, sorry - correct me if you know!)

 

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Splendor In The Grass


Black Lotus, Medina Maitreya (of Salomes' Suitcase) and Kami Liddle went out into the wilds somewhere in the East Bay hills for this photo shoot! They battled snakes and wild cows and Mountain Lions to get this shot! I love the whole composition - the hair - the clothes - the setting - the photography. Its just lovely! While I enjoy seeing Gorgeous Belly Dancers in their amazing costumes, its nice to see them wearing fashion as well. They are true Trend Setters!!!!!

Kami is gorgeous anyway...........but these photos are just lovely!

Kami is wearing stretch velvet Sampants - often copied, I might add, and the subject of my previous rant.
I was very upset. I know there is nothing that can be done, really about pirates, but it does help to know that I have the ability to modify this design (and all my others) to fit the hard to fit - which the pirates cant and wont do. This copying for profit practice does hurt designers, and it does hurt my business, but it just forces me to move on to other things..........I'll make it work to my advantage somehow. We all must.

I love this corset vest also. I want one and I have to get Medina to make me a much larger version somehow! (pretty please) This is your classic example of why we should try to buy from the designer. Sure I have the capability of making something similar. But would it be the same? No. Same Fabric? No. Same flair? No. Would it fit the same? No. Do I have the time? NO. Will it help the economy and help keep someone in business? Yes.

So There.

Model: Kami Liddle
Photo: Black Lotus
Corset Vest, Camisole, Hair, Makeup: Medina Maitreya
Pants: KathleenCrowleyCostmeCouture
Earrings: Auberon


Ok. So I lied about battling the snakes, wild cows, and mountain lions............but they could have!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Monday, March 22, 2010

Wishes

I have been very happy here on Albion Street, but its getting a little cramped for space and Ive been on a little search to see whats out there in the way of work spaces. I have my criteria. It has to be a very short walking distance to my house.  This doesn't seem unreasonable as I am so very close to buildings that house creative types. There are several big buildings near me that are devoted to artists and the like. Some of the spaces are really beautiful but the rents for the space I need are still a bit more than I can cough up in this economy. There is something out there with light and love - I know it. I see them sometimes on Craigslist. But I am officially putting my request out there to the Universe. I am willing to share with the right person. Im in no super hurry. But I would like more room for all those big fancy ball gowns that I envision.


I wont be getting this:

But I would like it to be bigger than this:

Just sayin.,.........Santa can come early if he wants................

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Sunday, March 21, 2010

A Message To The Consumer

About a week ago, I got fed up and angry with all the people who have copied my designs for production and profit. Last year, I was wondering where my customers were going and I found some copycats knocking me off here and in Canada. Well, this is what I wrote last week on Facebook and the response was pretty amazing. I wrote this not only with myself in mind (although I have been plenty worried for me) but for all my freinds, collegues, and people that I respect and admire.

This is not a black and white subject as there are many variables and reasons for why people do the things they do. But this is how I feel. Something has to change.

Enjoy the read whether you agree with me or not.

               ******************************************************************

                                            A Message To The Consumer


Lately business almost everywhere has tanked. It has tanked for just about everyone. People don't have the spare cash they used to have. Or if they have it, they are fearfully hanging onto every penny for dear life. I get it. We're in a Depression. Things have changed. They will get better, but things have to change before it gets better and we are very uncomfortable for now.

My business has tanked as well. I turned away from my custom clothing business a few years ago and focused on a few products that were becoming popular in our little belly dance community and were actually starting to pay my rent and put food on the table. And as this is my sole means of support in an extremely expensive part of the world, you can imagine how happy this was making me. I wasn't running out and buying myself expensive shoes and clothing, I wasn't filling my flat with velvet curtains, lush rugs, and satin sheets, but I was able to run over to Ikea now and then and buy pattern boxes or a cheap little throw rug. I was able to keep buying fabric to make more things. My name got out there and I was able to take care of my basic needs. The future was looking up for this starving artist type.

And then, as is what always happens to those of us who have put forth great ideas or concepts and do not have the means to mass market/mass produce/have a backer or a second or third income coming in, we get squashed. We go under. We go work for the man and often disappear entirely. This is about to happen to me, I fear. I hope not. But the danger is ever present.

Over the last few years, I focused on putting out designs and products that were special, different, fit well, were well designed, and made you feel good about wearing. I created my price points to allow me to eat, buy more fabric to make more things, and to hopefully be affordable for most.

There are two well known "designers" - one here in California and one in Canada, besides a few smaller others, who have taken my designs and mass produced them or are trying to. They sell them online. They sell them at festivals and events. People are buying their products and not buying mine now - the very same thing, basically, and I'm close to going under. My product is better. It is lovelier, it is well made, it is unique (or was at any rate), and you may no longer be able to buy my wares soon , because there will be no point in my trying to make them for you. I have asked these women to cease and desist. They refuse. They claim that they too are running women owned businesses and gotta do what they gotta do. This just backs up my claim that most women are vicious and all this talk about supporting your sisters is bullshit. (sorry, a little anger here) I did make peace with one person who is doing her product a bit differently, but it was still too close to comfort for me.

My patterns are copyrighted, they cannot be reproduced for mass consumption unless by me, and my resources for fighting back have dwindled now because people are going for the knock offs. But I'm not letting go of this. If it doesn't help me, maybe it will help someone else down the road.

This happens over and over and over and over. Piracy is deadly to small artists and designers who cannot defend themselves. I have been harping on this for years now. I dropped the ball for a while, but its time to get back in the saddle again and speak up. When you buy knock offs, you are usually getting an inferior product, are making a purchase from a pirate who did not do the original hundreds of dollars of work that it takes to get an idea into public domain, they do not have the skills or talent that the originator of the idea has - although they often think they do and DO have the skills to snow you, the consumer, and they are taking money away from the person who started the idea. They care nothing about what happens to the originator of the idea/design. They want to steal their ideas, claim them as their own, and hope that the original goes away. This is about greed and nasty competition. This is happening in our belly dance community. Tribal. Wasn't it supposed to be better than that?

While I am not trying to sound whiny, it is happening to me and my colleagues at a very bad time. And I want the public and the consumer to be aware that this is happening all around them. Not everyone can be aware of these things. I doubt that most care. But for those who have a conscience and do care, please buy from the original designers. You are getting a piece of the artists soul. Our designs are our babies. Its what we are here on earth for - to create. We deserve as nice a life as anyone. We deserve a living wage and our prices have to reflect that. I know that most dont think of these things. I hear so often. "you want that for this?" Yet you want beauty and special things in your life. You have to provide the maker the means to do these things for you. Its not rocket science.

And is this piracy thing an ok thing to teach our children? We teach them not to steal, but we are stealing on a day to day basis when we don't buy the original product. This makes us hipocrits. Like with any product on the market: know what it is. Know whats in it. Know where it came from. Know who's behind it. Know what this product is doing to your environment and the living things in it.

Please note that I am not talking about being inspired by something and making your version of it. I am not talking about making something for yourself, your friends, your troupe, or your family. I am always pushing, pushing, pushing people to sew, to make, to create, to buy supplies and fabrics - to support the dwindling fabric stores and the almost non existent fabric industry in this country.

I WANT people to be creative. I want everyone to find their creative "Happy Place" and luxuriate there........what I am pushing for here is awareness of piracy for profit. Its not fair. Its not cool. Its deadly.

Thank you.


Sampants
Model: Kristine Adams
Photo: Kristine Adams
kristineadams.com

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Thank you Ireland



Well, I did it. I almost forgot all about St. Paddy's Day today. I guess the realization last year that I'm not as Irish as I had been led to believe during my formative years got to me and my Irish side shut down. My Irish friends have been very nice about this, but still........its not the same.

However, I did start thinking about my Godfather, Andy Caverly. He came from Ireland and I always remember him looking like a leprechaun. He actually did when he was older. He was so proud of being Irish, although he lived here in the states, that he dyed his hair green every year and led the St. Patricks' Day parade. I remember him as being very kind and very jolly. I think the story goes that he befriended my mom at their church in Alameda, California, and introduced her to my dad. If I'm wrong, I'm sure someone will correct me.



I went to my Grandma Crowley's funeral with he and some of my sisters in the same limo. I was pregnant with my son. For some reason, the limo driver took us to the protestant cemetery by mistake and we ended up laughing our asses off. He said my Grandma was up in heaven enjoying the moment. I'll never forget that. I think he knew her better than I did.

So if it were not for the doing of the Irish, I would not be here. I would not be of Irish descent. I would not be creative. I would not live in this great nation. I would not be.

Thank you Ireland. I love you more than you know.

Sunday, March 14, 2010

Rashani World Fusion


Rashani World Fusion is performing at L's cafe
Friday March 19th
2871 24th St @ Bryant
San Francisco
1st and 2nd Friday every month!
7 and 9 pm

As if I dont have enough on my plate these days, I have gone and joined a dance troupe - or I should say, a "collective", as there are so many good dancers out there who just need/want to dance with joy, put on a great show, and show off their strengths without the rigorous commitment of a troupe. (not that there has not been years of rigorous training and commitment, here, folks!)

Wendy Marlatt has brought  Rashani World Fusion to SF and I have such a great time dancing/ putting on performances with her. This is going to be great!!!!!! 

Come check it out, have a glass of wine, chill, and support a great little neighborhood cafe!!!!!!

Rashani World Fusion

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Zambra Fusion Bellydance


My dance buddy and good friend, Wendy Marlatt is back in San Francisco again after living many years in Dublin, Ireland. And while Ireland and the UK now miss her, I missed her more! I did get to go stay with Wendy and her charming husband in their fabulous loft deep in the heart of the city. I did get to go hang out in the lands of my ancestors, meet many wonderful people and have great fun, but its always nice to get your friends back after they have been gone such a long, long time!


Wendy and I started dancing around the same time at the FatChanceBellyDance studio. She took ATS abroad and spread the love - spread the word! She formed her own troupe - Rashani International, studied under the finest teachers here and overseas, hosted the best of the best who came to teach and perform in Dublin, developed her own style and has now brought it back full circle. She has pulled me out of semi retirement, has commenced teaching me fun new steps, and Rashani World Fusion Bellydance is now based in SF!


Zambra is a really fun, flirty, graceful, feminine dance!!!!!!!! Come to her workshops !!!!!!!!!!!


kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Monday, March 8, 2010

Chris March goes to the Oscars!

Way to go Chris! Once again, Meryl Streep outshines everyone with her elegance and poise!

I was down in the LA area this weekend, but had to drive home during the Oscars - knowing this dress was going to get so much attention! It was killing me! I ran to my computer as soon as I made the 7 hour drive home. Im so proud. I'm so happy when people I care about get the kudos they deserve. Isnt she lovely?

Not that there were not many, many lovely gowns to swoon over, but this is how I would feel most comfortable dressing for something of this magnitude. So many dresses wear the actress. But not this one. Its perfect.

Friday, February 19, 2010

Vending Season Is Upon Us



February has been the deadest month for sales so far as long as I can remember. But Im looking at it as either the end of making Fluffie Rufflies and moving on to something else, or people are going to get realllllly tired of not wearing fun stuff soon and will need to loosen their purse strings soon in order to keep  new stuff appearing for their shopping perusal! I dont take it personally. Almost every business is in bad shape right now. But we must keep spending on a certain level to keep the economic flow going. I remind myself of this all the time. We just have to be very careful.

But on that note.....the festivals and venues are popping up again as spring approaches!
Some of my friends have formed a new dance collective and will be hosting the Rakkasah after party to celebrate 30 years of Rakkasah. 30 Years! Wow!

L'Anonyme Collective presents:
L'Amour de la Danse
March 13, 2010
Oakland Metro Operahouse
Oakland, Ca.

Lots of wonderful entertainment!
Salome's Suitcase will be vending!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Gothla 2010



I had such a great time at Gothla last year, that I decided to do it again! So my lovely assistant, Amina, and I will be heading down early next month with a trunk load of goodies from KathleenCrowleyCostumeCouture and Salome's Suitcase!

These next couple weeks will be filled with sewing, sewing, sewing so that I'll have something fun for your perusal and happy shopping experiance!

Hopefully I'll see you there!

Gothla
March 6th-7th
Bronco Student Center
3801 West Temple Avenue
Building 35
Pomona, California 91768

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

1860's Skirt Turned Inside Out



I showed the bodice earlier that goes with this skirt. I turned it inside out to show how it had been constructed - by hand.

Here is the matching skirt turned inside out. It is attached to a lined waistband using the cartridge pleats that enabled so much fabric to be sew onto a small waistband. Much smaller than our normal waistbands today - as a rule.

 

 


The polished cotton used to flatline the skirt body is a common one that Ive seen used frequently then.
There is one long pocket at one side. And there is a an open section on the other side of the lining. Maybe there was supposed to be another pocket? Maybe an inner unattached pocket tied around her waist - I dont know........

 

 


A little hem was turned up at the floor, over the lining.
A little piece of fabric is falling off at the hooks on the waistline.
All sewn by hand.



This has little to do with garment construction - but it is about proportion. I hear smaller women complaining all the time that they cannot wear things that a larger woman might be able to wear. Wide legged pants for example. This is all about proportion and how you cut the garment to work on your particular body. A smaller woman wouldnt use as much fabric - the pants might be cut a tad less wide  for her size. Its also how you would wear them and with what. Take these bell shaped skirts and pagoda sleeves. These were generally worn by smaller women - but they are proportioned to be worn in a flattering way. A corset and petticoats, a corset cover, a bonnet. This is a lot of stuff to haul around. But the cut of the jacket and the shape of the skirt are very lovely on.

Now I, who am almost 6 ft. tall,  can look like a moose in a skirt when I'm wearing this style if Im not careful. I take up an awful lot of room. I still love this era and love to dress up, but I don't usually make my skirts quite as full - so as not to run everyone over when I walk around. Well, sometimes ........but its all about the proportion. And I feel a little strange when my dress is way huger than everyone else's. (unless thats my goal)

Monday, February 15, 2010

Bland Land

I dont usually pay much attention to the goings on of NY Fashion Week because it is generally boring. Maybe boring is too controversial. SAFE would be the better word. But nothing new there. America does not like its fashion over the top. I dont know why that is. Corporate Darkness?

Because the passing of Alexander McQueen has overshadowed the fashion world during its most important time of the year, I thought I would search a bit online while having my morning coffee and see what pops up. I thought I would give us a chance - it didnt seem fair to let a design hero's death outshine what everyone else is trying to achieve.

All I got was this.


So dont get me wrong. I love Betsty Johnson and I always will. Ive always worn her clothes. I used to be  compared to her. This is way cute, but its just so.............tame. Come on America. You can do better.

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Thank You Alexander McQueen

In spite of this awful week, and perhaps despite it, Im feeling love in my heart for everything creative. When Lee Alexander McQueen left this earth, a huge hole was left for us to fill. And it is going to take all of us to do it.

A friend of mine and I were talking yesterday and he said that it is not our duty to find happiness in our personal lives, but to create something in which to leave behind for others when we die. And this rung true for me. Perhaps we think too much about ourselves and our personal needs and not about making the world a more beautiful place.  It has been seeming so for an awfully long time.

And if we did concentrate on our creativity - and leaving that behind when we die - other than children and things  and debt, perhaps the next generations would be spurred on to do the same.

Well, it was just a thought. But I did see where I have been focusing on the wrong things. Or just plain useless, meaningless THINGS. Mr. McQueen is in a better place now with the ladies he loved. We still have what he left behind to inspire us. And let us not forget all the other wonderful designers out there who create amazingly wonderful feasts for our eyes. He cannot be replaced, but let us not forget them now in our sorrow.

Back to business at hand. Today I will be doing my laundry and cutting out yards and yards of fabric for new items to make and sell. New garment pieces  to hopefully add a little joy in someone's day. Perhaps something frivolous. Perhaps something that isn't completely practical. But in the world of increasing Corporate Darkness that is fed off of the Mundane, it will be my tiny little contribution. I love you. Thank you. Happy Valentine's Day. Do something today that fills your soul.


kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Thursday, February 11, 2010

RIP



This one hits me especially hard. The world is a gray place for me today. Life goes on, but it wont be the same again. Its always sad when genius flys away.

I have been planning to participate in a fashion show this spring and this new Alexander McQueen collection - the set - the vibe really turned me on. It gave me inspiration that I needed and now I just feel devastated. RIP.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Victorian Bodice From The Inside Out



So here is my Victorian bodice that I scored for a song in Albuquerque - turned inside out! And Im showing this inside out, so that you can see how this was made. We take for granted our sewing machines and clothing made for pennies in China. This woman didnt even have a sewing machine. She made her outfit by hand. One stitch at a time. Or she was a costumer over 50 years ago and was striving for historical accuracy. Somehow I doubt that though.


Ive looked extensively for examples of vintage garment construction online and it is either treated as some kind of guarded secret, or Im just not looking in the right places. There are tons of books out there now on this subject, but I still find that actually looking at the garment tells you loads more. Im sure most old dresses are just too delicate to be turned inside out like this, but I did it anyway and the dress is fine. It really does look like it was just pulled out of the closet. The sales tag said it was from the 1860's. It could be a bit earlier. It could be a costume that someone made, but the fabric is so old, that I think its the real deal. I can tell by the lining. Someone chime in here if I'm wrong!!!!

 
  
  
  
I just love the old hooks and eyes!
There are 5- 4.5" bones in the front of the bodice. One is placed at the very front, over the "eyes" at the waist. The very front bone is encased in the same polished cotton as the lining. The remaining 4 bones are encased in the front darts. Whenever possible, the selvedge was turned over onto the inner lining as a facing. All seams are hand sewn. There are little almost invisible basting stitches in the seams. and some of the darts were stitched so that they would lie flat.

I'm sorry for my poor quality photos - a new camera is much needed! 

The cobalt blue silk facing was flat lined with the polished cotton. Ive seen this cotton used as lining many times, I just dont recall seeing things faced this nicely. But this is obviously just me being ignorant. As my friend Monique Motil say's........."if they coulda, they woulda". 
This facing is stitched down so nicely - I had to double check and make sure that it hadnt really been done by machine. Nope. All. By. Hand. And it was pieced as to use the fabric wisely and not extravegantly.

The seams are all whip-stitched to cut down on fraying. And at first I thought that this was just a simple little costume. But the pagoda sleeves are inset with a teeny tiny piping - as is the neckline! This is such a lovely finish and adds body and dimension to the overall effect. 

Also, I thought the buttons were made from the same cloth, but they are not. Nice match!

 
  
  
 
 
I'll post the inside of the skirt next. Im sure most of us have seen petticoats up close and personal, but I'll show that too, for fun! 

kc.costumecoutre@gmail.com 

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

My Funny Valentine

I received this in the mail this morning after being on the phone - on the street - for 2 hours - trying to get At&T to let me out of my contract because of the horrible, horrible service that I get (or I should say, service that I dont get) I live in a dead zone, but thats another story. This made me laugh so hard that I ended up sobbing......in a good way!

I had posted on Facebook a while back that I am upgrading my expectations in a man to a more Sir Sean Connery type.

Happy Valentine's Day everyone! Im taking this as a thumbs from the universe!

(thank you, Shelby!! XXX)

Monday, February 8, 2010

My Victorian Score


I mentioned in a post earlier that I had found a dress and petticoat in an antique store that is dated as having been made in the 1860's. The corded petticoat and 2 piece dress were a steal. I thought it had to be a mistake and picked it up and started carrying it around. Then I thought about it and put it back. It couldn't be real at that price. Then I showed it to one of my friends and they thought I'd be nuts to not get it, so I figured that even as a good replica, it was a great score!





It was probably someone's good visiting  dress, I'm sure. The gown is in almost perfect condition. The outer and inner fabric looks barely worn. Usually the silk linings are shattered from the weight of the garments and the environmental conditions it was stored in. The outer fabric doesn't look faded at all.



If this is about 150 years old, its in great shape - maybe the fact that it was in the desert of New Mexico helped to preserve it. It smells like that good old fashioned trunk-in-the-attic mustiness. Its got the old hook and eyes, boning, and little tiny stitches - all done by hand. Only a die-hard costumer/preservationist would attempt this now. These are the stitches that I try to emulate when I do handwork. But even I, who loves to sit and do handwork cannot replicate these. Ive seen much finer stitches on the nicer garments......but still.......


This dress is way too small to fit even the smallest of my friends, so I had to drape it onto my mannequin the best I could. I thought I would take some photos of the inside, as well, to show how it was made. I'll do this in several posts.

 
 
So this was a super fun find for me and a lovely example of good old fashioned everyday dressmaking!

Pardon my poor photography. This camera just flew out of my hands and broke the other day - so I guess its time to upgrade!

I'll post pictures of this turned inside out soon!

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Waffling About

Again, I should be sewing, but I love this:

Third Coast Or Bust

My pictures from Third Coast Tribal mainly suck. I was using my iphone camera indoors in low light. That wasnt my most brilliant move - but I had misplaced my real camera and this had to do. Most photos didnt turn out, but I just want to show how pretty our space was.
Thats one reason I love our little collective.........we make our booth pretty and interesting - and we work well together. Our goods are high quality and we like things to look interesting and a cut above the norm. So we are always moving stuff around on the racks and tables and freshening up the look and feel of the booth. And then we take notes and figure out how to make it better next time!
 
~Rose taking notes in her new winter 5 & Diamond jacket~
We were right up against the stage at this venue, which was pretty, but maybe not the best area all in all. The lighting was poor and since there were workshops on the stage, shopping had to be kept at a minimum - not the best place to put a vendor - but we made it work and everyone was so nice. I met women who had purchased from me on Etsy - and that was so much fun! I just LOVE meeting people who buy and wear my things. Call me crazy...........but its such a huge compliment!!!!! And then of course, we got to watch our stuff in action on the stage in the workshops.

:)

So we made it. We got there. We had fun. We financed our trip.........and thats what matters!
 
  
  

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com 

I Left My Tooth In Oklahoma

 
I have always had a thing about wanting to go to Oklahoma. I dont know why. Maybe its because of the musical. Ive costumed it twice. Ive sung every song. Ive got friends from there. Ive heard all about it.

But the reality was: I was freezing. I thought I was gonna die. I saw mostly gas stations, frozen prairie, and empty towns. No Curly. No Ado Annie. I was cranky and we couldnt find propane. I broke a tooth. We visited a Walmart. 

And that was it. I dont think I'll be returning. 

But the guy in this conveniance store was really nice and boiled some water for us so that we could fill up our hot water bottle. (no heat in the rv - cold snap - Misery) 


Picture: Kathleen, Lee, Rose of Salome's Suitcase 

Monday, February 1, 2010