Polonaise Part Two

After I cut out the mockup, cut out the bodice and ruffles, I proceeded to cut channels for the rouching, then the trim on the bias to make edging for the skirt and sleeve.

I figured out where I wanted the skirt to bustle up and then I sewed the channel strips to the underside of the skirt. I sewed a seam down the middle of the channel so that it would create a rouching effect when the ribbon was pulled. I made 4 of these. When I wove the ribbon through the channeling, I left enough room to pull the ribbon up from the underside of the skirt near the bodice if she didn't want to tie it from the hem.

At first, I cut and doubled up the bias trim strips and pinned my ruffle treatment to the skirt, but it was waaaaaaaaaaaay too heavy and bulky for this kind of project so I decided to cut it down in width with my serger, serged the edges on both sides, turn the edges over with my straight stitch and apply the trim to the skirt freehand for a bit of a carefree effect. Actually, it looked very even and I was quite pleased that I didn't bother to pin any of it on first. I "made it work". And it went on fast.

The sleeve was another matter. I basted that trim down first because I knew it would be a little harder to get it around below the elbow evenly and easily. This took very little time though.

Polonaise Part One

This is my all time favorite pattern..... I use it over and over and over. I think I made it as the instructions required once, but I just appreciate the silhouette, it is easy, and I can tweak the hell out of it.

So that is what I did. I tweaked a bit.
I found this great black and grey semi-sheer striped drapery fabric on sale and Lynne and I bought up most of it. She wanted a stripie coatie coverup dress kind of thing for her trip to Italy and Sweden. For when she gets dressed up, you know. Not that she doesn't always look great, but something fun and dressupie

First I took her measurements and made a mock up from what I understood that she was wanting. We thought about what she was going to wear it with and decided to make the front and back a little longer, make the skirt way bigger ( the skirt in the pattern always seems a little skimpy to me), add frills, bias ruffles, and channeling to rouch up the skirt, add a zipper in the front and modern it up a bit.

I flatlined the bodice in a light grey cotton in order to show off the stripes a bit.
I cut large bias ruffles for the neckline. I also made the neckline much deeper to show off her bosom. Why hide these things, I say.

I then cut two layers of bias ruffles for the sleeve and I shortened the sleeve a bit. I thought it looked better that way.

Sew A Seam

I yearn for simpler times!

kathleen.crowley@yahoo.com
http://www.kathleencrowley.etsy.com

Monster R.I.P

Monster died last night. He had heart failure and his human had to put him to sleep.

It was all very sudden and unexpected.

Monster leaves behind his brother Boo and his human Kathleen who both grieve his departure.

Monsters favorite things to do in life were to lay in the sun, be adored by humans, and dip scraps of fabric in his water bowl. He also liked to delicately touch his human's face with his paw for no apparent reason.

Monsters' greatest accomplishment in life was overcoming his disabilities. He was not the smartest cat on the block, but he had soft fur, pretty eyes, and a heart of gold. He also became very adept at greeting his human at the door every night - no matter what the hour.

He will be missed

BITCH

You love them
You need them
You gotta have one..........

Or some bitch does!

kathleencrowley.etsy.com

HGTV

I am OBSESSED with HGTV!!! I go to sleep with it and wake up with it. I just got cable again and I guess I'm making up for lost time. It isn't that I often LIKE what they are doing - its that there are so many endless possibilities to improve your living space. I like to see what people do or dont do with thier living spaces.

I especially like the new home virgins and staging for resale. I try to watch the new young college designers redo people's homes, but that's too hard to watch. They usually do a nice job, but the process is torture. I know they have to enlist as much free help as they can, but when it comes to actually sewing something and they show someone do it - I simply cringe. I would rather watch a slasher film.

Seriously.

I thought about entering for the free green home and hybrid car being offered at Tradition Hilton Head, SC. But once investigating where that actually is, I realized that I would hate it there and would get run out by a craZy mob with the modern version of a pitchfork. But it will make someone somewhere very happy. If I could win the house - its soooooooooooooo cute - and take it somewhere else, I would enter that contest every single day! And with the economy as it is, selling it could be a nightmare.

I'm all about power tools now. When the time comes to move to a bigger workshop, I would love to have a table saw and a nail gun.

Yes Dear Santa, I want a nail gun. And as a former and hopefully future home owner, I vow that I will use it too.

Are we the Borg?

Ive started jumping in on the comments about Chris March's collection. I dont understand this aversion many people - and I will say most americans have - for anything that is not "safe" and prescribed to sell to the masses. Basicly anything that is not made in America. If it is not made overseas and sold through the major clothing companies and advertised as THE THING to wear this season, we cant seem to understand anything else. Dear people, this isnt about style, its about making money quick and easy and catering to our ADD sensibility. RTW has to change constantly and it has to be made very badly for the most part. It isnt about art. Chris is an artist. Rami is an artist. Christian is an artist. Nobody has to like it, but it is what it is. Everyone wants to be a critic. Maybe its just jealousy.

The simple word "costume" seems to throw everyone into a tizzy. I would say that from what I read and hear, most dont even know what the word means.

Can we not as a nation start thinking about style and individuality?

Do we STILL not understand that couture is art and art is an expression of what is going on inside the designer/artist and also in the world around us?

Can we not just step outside of the box a little bit and stop being afraid of our shadows?

Are we the Borg?

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Red And Black Fluffie Rufflies

Pirate
Steampunk
Dancer
Daydreamer

Comfy
Well-made
Designed, cut, sewed in San Francisco.
Thats Right - Made in America

Etsy

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Sunset Idea House part two:

Of course, none of the materials I used were green by any means, but I used Sunbrella's indoor/outdoor fabric, which is always fun. I like the use-ability of it. It is heavy enough to endure some elements and they have many fun patterns, colors, and textures to choose from.

I made some outdoor cushions for the upstairs deck. They turned out very cute. The fabric is not really my style, but I liked it because it is very cheery and goes well with the layout and greenery they chose. I'm so oldie fashiondie, but sometimes modern is better.

I also made other cushions for the inside of the house, but I had to run off to England for a much needed vacation and couldn't get the photos that I wanted. I am posting some of the pics that I took while working on the project just as an example of the fabric choices and how they look well together.

I post this photo of my intern, Molly whenever I can - She makes working with me look like so much fun...........



kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Sunset Magazines' SF Mission Idea House

Last fall, I did a little project for Sunset Magazines' Idea House down in the Mission area of San Francisco. I liked this project because they did try to use recycled and sustainable materials as much as possible to create a "green" living situation. It was a gorgeous house on the inside. I'm a little too old fashioned for the modern exterior, but it was very well done. Ok.....buy me the house and I'll live there (sigh).


I really loved the window treatment fabric they picked for the master bedroom. Very sheer and soft, yet modern at the same time. I added a little chain to the hem to keep it in place and not be too billowie - to keep it all in place.


And here is what I did with the scraps left over.
Well.......I like it anyway!


kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Up To My Ears In Ruffles

Its all piled up around me! This flu just did me in. I'm all recovered now, but I keep hearing about relapses. What can you do? I had to go with it and rest. I don't have backup to sew when I'm down. That must be what dying feels like......you just know you are going and you go with it. You cant worry about all your bazillion responsibilities. (hope so anyway.........)

So my Easter weekend is sewing lace and stripes like a crazy mad woman. One of these days I will farm some out or bring a sewer in, but then I will have to relinquish some control.

I didn't realize what a control freak I am - I hide it well. No?

kathleencrowley.etsy.com
kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Time For Spring Cleaning!

I cant believe its easter already. Wasnt it just St. Patricks' Day? That passed me by too.

Well, Happy Easter Everyone!
Its spring now, so its time to get your aprons and feather dusters out and dust off the shelves - do some spring cleaning!

Or you can just buy one from me and eat bon bons all day!

Etsy.com
kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

April is for Apron

I know its not April yet, but Ive decided that April should be Apron Month. Ive been putting up some pretty cool aprons for sale on Etsy. Ive been seeing them on the Runway in Paris. Ive been seeing more and more vintage apron patterns resurface. They are just the best things ever. An apron can be just for decoration. It can be used as a little something extra to funkify and cutify your everyday garments. You can wear them with jeans. You can wear them to dance in. You can wear them to paint or sew or build a house in. I use mine at work. I make nice deep useful pockets and they keep at least some of the threads off my usually black outfit of the day. I dance in them when the gig allows. They blend into that tribal ATS or folkloric gypsy Rom style and they are a fun, colorful accessory. I use them on the occasions when I actually go out and vend at a festival. They saved my neck at Tribal Fest and Rakkasah. And they attract a lot of attention.

Steven LeMay from Retrofit is camping it up in one of my little aprons. I believe that one has been sold, but there are more available - no two are the same. And they are little works of art.

kathleencrowley.etsy.com
kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Too Tired To Moddle

I'm about to tear into this striped pile of fabric. It will be a stripie jacketie polonaisie thing that will be worn on a trip to Europe in a week or so. No, its not for me. Im not going back this year - next year though. And perhaps I'll have my own stripie jacketie thing to wear. Because next time I go, Ive got my own agenda and I will not be making the trip over to be at the beck and call of everyone Else's schedule. A week in London. A week in Paris. And I would like to explore Ireland a bit better. Perhaps stay in Cork for a while, since my last visit was a little short - sheeted.

Isn't this Gualtier ad just the best?
Thats about how it sums up my vibe these last couple weeks with the flu.
Too tired to moddle. Thanks for sending me that, Lynne! Soon, you will up to your pretty neck in stripes!

I did join a gym though. Picking the scissors up and putting them back down, just isnt enough weight training.

Gotta look good when I make my stripie jacketie polonaisie thing for my own European vacation.

Fashion Terrified Are We

For all the bravado, we in this country are obviously fashion terrified. I love Tim Gunn and I know its JUST TV - but please........





Look how beautiful this is.
Whats so damned shocking about human hair on something? Haven't they seen whats on the Paris runway lately?

Of Course they have. Its just tv drama. Most Americans dont want to see Haute Couture anyway.(well, most people, Im sure - period) This show is supposed to be about sellable fashion. But I would wear this to the grocery store if I could. In fact, we should all dress nicer to go to the grocery store. Even in SF I see sweat pants and baseball caps in the aisles. Not Pretty. On anyone.

So I knew Chris wasn't going to win. I hoped. He deserved it. American fell in love with him like I hoped they would. And I sure hope he inspired some kids to step outside of the box.

Chris March played it safe all throughout Project Runway because he wanted to show that he could do fashion. Fashion doesn't have to be boring. But the judges on PR sure are.
Costumie? Dear God. Give me a break.
But in the end, he won anyway. And he gave everyone something to talk about.
And his exit speech reminded me why he is one of my favorite of human beings.
He's taught me a lot.


Well, I'm bored with Project Runway now. Hooray for whoever wins.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Love

Im watching an interview of Sweet Pea right now. I always really liked her. Her collection was great and she has done a lot of work in the industry. At the end of the day, she says, its all about making money.

Yes, we have to make money. It keeps us going and it keeps the world going around. They say that love makes the world go round. But loving what you do surely does. And loving what you do and making money at it is the greatest gift, I think. Love doesn't pay the rent (unless its a certain kind of "love" - but we wont go there), but if you love what you do AND it pays the rent......how cool is that!!!! And then actual bonafide love from a fellow human being is the icing on the cake. What matters first off is the love of yourself and then it all falls into place.

I made my first Etsy sale today. How LOVELY is that!
X

kathleencrowley.etsy.com

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

New Etsy Shop Up and Running!

I'm happy to say that finally I got a little shop up online. Ive been busy, busy, busy producing Fluffie Rufflies - a very small lot of striped dance pants and some other things. Ebay has just not been an option as they have raised their fees so high that many sellers I know have fled to to Etsy.com.

It is fun to shop on Etsy. I love their format. There are some amazing hand made and vintage items up for sale. And now I'm trying it out as well.

I'll be posting and selling as fast as I can make it.
Some of it will fabulously pricey.
Some of it will be a deal.
It will all be unique.
I ship everywhere.

kathleencrowley.etsy.com

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

The Makings of Costume Ball Glamour

Lori King came to me with a project that I couldnt refuse. She knew what she wanted and she was going to get it. I like that in a woman.

She wanted to wear something fabulous to the upcoming Edwardian Gorey Ball. She brought me a white acetate wedding dress that was found in a thrift store and a late Victorian jacket that was in fair condition, but the lining was shredding to bits - as they do.

I dyed the dress three times to get the right shade of purple. We knew we wouldnt be able to achieve the goal because of the fiber content, but we tried anyway and came up with a lovely violet. I chopped off the bodice and faced the waist of the skirt. I bustled it slightly and left a pretty little train.

My wonderful assistant, Unsinkable Molly was given the task of tenderly taking out the tattered lining, carefully reinforcing the stressed and frayed parts of the jacket with black lingerie fusing. I prefer using this type of fusing on delicate garments and textiles when I can because it adheres to the fabric quickly and with little effort. It just gives that little extra bit of strength and you cant really tell that its there. Then I copied the jacket and made a purple lining to insert in place of the original. This was a very difficult and delicate task and we spent many hours trying to improve and salvage this piece instead of destroying it. We succeeded.

Molly is reading her fortune......"you will earn much good karma and many future minions by being of service to others now".......

I made Lori a corset of black china brocade with a bee motif. It is a combination of the victorian and 18th century style. I added black beads to the upper arm.

She was stunning. And I made a new friend!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Dear Auntie, dont roll in your grave!

Jennifer Kessler wanted to wear her dear Aunts' wedding dress to the Edwardian Ball on Saturday night at the Great American Music Hall. She had a waist cincher and little white top hat to match, but the dress needed a little "something". I bustled up the dress very carefully as I didnt want to ruin the gown for posterity's sake. And her family might have killed us! I basted a panel on to the waistband and along the side back. I basted in some tulle for body, and then I tacked the train to the inside panel to create a bustled effect for the evening. She can take the whole thing apart very easily without destroying the dress.

Simple and effective.
And the camera loved her.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

The Corvest

I was commissioned by Jen to make a corset vest for her boyfriend, Jon. It was for the Edwardian Ball and they wanted something that he would be able to wear on many occasions. We call it a Corvest because it is very like a vest, except that it is boned - with a front busk and it laces up the back. I do believe he loves it because he has been seen out in it since! And he is absolutely handsome and so debonaire in it!

He picked a black chinese brocade with a red design - chrysanthemums. The back is a black satin.

Here he is with Jen. I had to throw in a photo of the two of them with Jill Tracey because they all just look fabulous together!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Edwardian Edward Gorey Ball

The Deranged Cousins
And it was truly filled with deranged cousins of all types and persuasions.
The entertainment for this 3 night ball was spectacular, although we we only attended the Saturday night ball which was sold out. Jill Tracey, Rosencoven, acrobats, circus folk, burlesque. Assorted scary, odd, macabre and just plain interesting installations, decorations, costumes galore. Eye candy everywhere!

Erling Wold emulating a Gorey cartoon cutout of one of his deranged cousins



You really cant see the Edwardian style corset that I am wearing - but this is how it looked by the end of the night.






Lynne Rutter Inspecting Erling's close shave. I think she and Erling were the epitomy of Edwardian Gorey splendor that night. I wish I could say that I made Erling's suit, but some other stitch whore made it ahead of me. Isn't it amazing? Lynne's waist cincher is my creation. Basic and black and great for any occasion.


Here we are - the motley crew of the Edwardian ball. Actually, the whole Great American Music Hall was one one huge motley crew. You should look up Edwardian ball on Flickr - the photographs are magnificent and give the flavor of the evening much more spectacularly than I ever could. It was nice to be surrounded by so many of my creations. Almost everyone I was hanging out with that night was wearing something I made or rehashed. So fab. It was great.

Holding up the post in a saucy wench way. Cant take me anywhere.
In my defence, I had very little time to throw something together.
And sometimes, those are the most pleasing costumes of all!


kc.costumecouture@gmail.com