The Fluffie Rufflie Dance Pant pattern (shown above ) is meant for very stretchy fabrics. I like to use a medium to heavy weight cotton lycra for the upper portion of the pants, but you can make it out of anything that has a good 2 way stretch. I also like to use stretch lace for the flounces, but you can experiment with that as well. Sometimes a woven or heavier knit is better for the bottom tier as it gets more friction if it drags on a ground surface. The knits drape very well. Just remember that these flounces will get very heavy and the heavier the fabrics, the heavier the drag on the pants!
As you can see, this is a multi-sized pattern. It goes from Extra Small to Extra Large.
This pattern is meant to sewn up by someone who understands patterns and sewing techniques......but sometimes the best way to learn is to just dive in and do it. Use cheap knit to experiment and get the fit down.
XS - 31-35"
S - 33-37"
M - 35-39"
L - 37-42"
XL - 39-45"
If you want to enlarge this pattern, I cant really teach you how to do this, but here is a way to make do: if you were to cut the top of the pattern in half from top to bottom, you could spread it out in 2 inch increments per size that you would like to grade up from. Here is an example of adding width to a pattern. Make a mock up first and get the fit from the mock up. You can make your mistakes with the mockup fabric. You will also have to enlarge the insert pieces and the flounce pieces. This will make the flounces very wide, so you might have to piece them.
There is no variation in the inseam measurement of 34". You will have to shorten or lengthen up or down from this. Make a mockup out of cheap fabric is you have need to experiment!
See what I mean when I say that using wide fabric is best if at all possible. This flounce fabric is doubled in half and the pattern wont fit on it. So you are going to have to unfold it and refold it in such a way as to double the yardage and get your flounces.
You can either cut out the top of the pants or cut out the flounces and inserts first. It doesnt really matter. Ive used a rather ugly taupe colored cotton lycra to demonstrate the construction of the upper body because you can see it better. Susie Bianca, my assistant, is cutting out an extra large upper body. I like to trace around my patterns with chalk before I cut them out. I make all my markings with the chalk. Some like to cut around the patterns without marking the fabric first.. I say do it how you prefer. Make sure that you cut a double notch for the back crotch and a single notch for the front crotch. This will make it easier for you to assemble.
Susie Bianca is about to cut into a knit with a minimal stretch for the leg bands:
Be sure to cut or mark notches in the leg insert bands. Don't cut too deep - maybe an 1/8". You will be laying them out according to the notches when you assemble them. I have cut these notches too deep and sewed them up only to find that I needed some extra length and had to redo the pants legs - dont cut the notches too deep!
Once Ive serged the edges of the flounces, I lay out the tiers in the order that I would like them to look on the leg.
Start with one of the legs, sew up to the center crotch, and then continue sewing to the end of the other leg: Butt that center crotch seam together!
Now you will attach the elastic. Measure your elastic, overlap an inch on both sides and reinforce your stitching by sewing in an X.
Mark your sewn elastic by marking the front, back, and sides with 4 pins.
Pin the elastic to the wrong side. The overlapped elastic with the stitched X will be placed at center back:
You will now baste the elastic to the upper edge of your pants. Stretch a bit as you sew. (but don't pull through the machine!)
Serge or zig zag your elastic onto the upper edge of your pants.
Fold over the elastic and carefully pin it in several places if you need to. You will then zig zag the elastic casing down in place. This part of the pants body is done for now and you can set it aside.
So now we are going to serge the insert bands together to form a tube. You can sew them all in a line, clip them apart, and put them in piles of two.
#1 set has 1 and 2 notches
#2 set has 2 and 3 nothces
#3 set has 3 and 4 notches
#4 set has 4 and 0 notches. The 0 notched end will be where you start adding your flounces. ( by 0 notches, I mean that there are no notches)
You start with the bottom set of inserts and the bottom set of flounces. Match the outer seams of the inserts with no notches to the notch on the right (face) side of the flounce.
I pin these together in four places, then baste stitch the upper edge. After that, I sew 1/2' seam.
Do each set of flounces and inserts (bands) at the same time unless you are using all the same fabrics. Its easy to get the layered sequences mixed up if you dont pay attention. You will then scream and cry because you have to rip out seams and figure out how to get those flounces back in the right places. This first set that you just did will be the last tier of flounces on your leg.
Take the next set of bands with #3 and #4 notches and match that up to the layer you just sewed - seam to seam over the notched flounce. Sew this on in the same manner as before.
And now you have your second layer of flounces. Continue in this manner, tier by tier, until you have a full set of 5 layers of flounces for each leg. Check and make sure that you got them all matched up.
These are now ready to attach onto the upper body of your pants. I suggest basting them on first and checking the length. You can adjust the length at the band inserts and also at the upper leg. This is what they are going to look like inside out:
Place the leg in the upper body with the right sides of the fabrics facing each other. Match up the side seams and pin evenly in four places.
After basting these parts together and checking the fit and length, you can sew these two parts together.
I sew more than might be necessary, but if you are wearing them a lot, something is eventually going to give, and it would be better to have reinforced seams for when the threads give way and break one day.............just sayin...........................better safe than sorry!
Now you can overlock or zig zag all those band seams.
Measuring the front and back crotch seams: These seams are what determine how much room in the trunk that you need. Since this style is meant to be warn about 3" below the bellybutton, many of you will need them to rest lower on the hip bone and this measurement will help you with that. Double check this.
Checking the Inseam: Crotch to Hem. If you are making the pants super tight, take into consideration that this might raise this hem length a bit.
Hang these overnight and check the hem length. The flounces may droop in odd places, but this is the nature of this kind of ruffle. If you want them perfectly even all the way around, you can mark them after you let them hang and re-overlock or trim and zig zag the edges again.
Fluffie Rufflie Pantaloons
Very Cute! Now go out and make a pair of your own! Have fun!