Ive been pretty busy in March. Now that we have the longer daylight, I get more done (I spend my mornings doing admin and sourcing - plus all the errands......). Ive had lots of vintage alterations lately, which I dearly love. I'm finishing up a few projects and starting a few more.............gotta keep the flow going...........I helped style a bridal photo shoot with Black Lotus Clothing last week. We should hopefully see results of that in May.

Every now and then, I miss a call or someone  doesn't call me back. I do my best to get right back to all of you, but please give me a few days just in case I'm in deadline mode! I treat your project as importantly as everyone else's and when Im really into working on your gown or costume, Im going to be focusing intently on finishing it up for you also. That may mean not being able to drop what Im doing just when I want to!

That being said, I always have to be revolving projects. So email me!! Call me!! Keep bugging me!!

April is promising to be busy. My shop at Tews Treasures is looking cuter every day. As soon as the rains stop, I'll be building a cute display wall so that I bring more fun things in - AND we have lots of events lined up! Ive got one more Bridal Show to attend this Spring!
Stay Tuned!!!!
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Free Shipping For USA customers!!!!

I'm offering free shipping within the United States through Christmas!  Ive been up to my eyeballs in private custom projects and don't have a lot of new things in my Etsy shop yet, but maybe free shipping will help you out if you have been on the fence about investing in one of those adorable vests or slip dresses!  I don't really do the Christmas retail thing. The stress is not pretty. I cant handle the buyer's remorse and the trouble that this causes me. And it ONLY happens at this time of the year. I would love you to buy me out, but I cant do all that pressure thing. Its ugly. Use discount code FREESHIPPING at checkout when you make your purchase!! Its always lovely to know you are wearing my creations!

What have I been up to?? I was commissioned to make a pretty little Alice in Wonderland dress for a sweet young thing who always has to wear costumes on stage that are falling apart. Chris March sent me the lovely baby blue moire taffeta and the ideas and I whipped her up a cute little ensemble. He provided her with the apron, petticoat, shoes, and stockings. Lucky, lucky lady! I hear she is over the moon!

Ive been making a couple corsets and doing lots of alterations and vintage repair. Hand beading, moving and replacing zippers on delicate fabrics. The things that I really enjoy doing...........I am a total clothing doctor, no doubt. I need a doctor's bag and a smock!

But I indeed did make myself a bit of a linen smock dress, actually. I am so in love with the linen right now. Total love affair going on! So easy to throw on and not be too hot or cold.  Its perfect to meet clients in or go fabric shopping. I just love it more than ever!
Ive been making a new robe for Joan Crawford to wear in Christmas With The Crawfords. Go see it if you are in the NYC area this holiday season! I made the little blouses in this flyer. LOL

And now I am working on making new merchandise and a fashion show for ATS Homecoming in January. More to be announced about that soon. Oh - so much more to be announced...........

Whew.

Catching My Breath

The last two months have been a whirlwind of wedding dresses, small production, and festival vending. And now that those particular projects are done and Ive caught my breath, I can focus on all the bridal and vintage alterations that are on my dress rack. But I had a few days to tend to my garden, play with my new kitten, and clean up my messy studio. As soon as the chaos is cleared, the shelves dusted, and the floors vacuumed and mopped, Im always able to launch back into the next project......which is a few cute, simple little costumes for a major beer company who need flyers and promo handed out during Pride. I cant believe its June already!!!!!!!!

Altering A Beaded Wedding Bodice

This bride needed some gapping closed up in the front of her gown. It was sized as a 14, which she is not - and I cant help but believe that the wedding dress industry does this on purpose in order to procure more money through expensive alterations. And I could even maybe justify their reasoning in this market if they would do quality alterations, but I rarely see that as the case. Many of these places will just chop off your dress and give it a cheap looking  hem. It always looks awful and they get away with it. I have a hard time believing that someone would think these hems look good, but maybe the brides just don't know better.

I do everything by hand or as nicely done with a machine as possible. I want it to hang right and that usually means giving it an ample hem.

But I digress. This bride needed her bodice taken in and I was able to do it by taking it in at the back zipper, adding satin cookies inside at the bra line, and taking in the front gap by folding over the fabric. I then carefully hand stitched the fold down, and strategically tacked down the beading so that it wasnt an obvious fix.

All in a day's work! :)

Be Careful For What You Ask For .....................

Because when you are begging the Universe to give you a much deserved break, It might actually be listening.............

I have not signed the papers and handed over any monies yet, but I am going in and doing so next week. I got my Live/work storefront..........I am so happy and grateful, but I dare not get excited until everything is signed, sealed, and delivered. I still have to cough up a lotta dough. This may not have been such a huge issue a while back, but as most of you know - the economy has hit us all pretty hard under the belt. If I didn't think that I would be able to grow and prosper in this new workspace, I would lie low and hibernate for a while. I would carry on as Ive been doing. But the bottom line is that I do not have enough space, I cannot work as long and as hard as I need to each day (thin walls, ceilings, and floors = sensitive neighbors) and I have not been nearly as productive as I absolutely must be. So it will be a win/win situation! Its in the cards - the cards say its a green light/go opportunity!

I have been and am putting a lot of things up on Etsy as time allows......it really is simply a matter of finding the time to do it all. I'll have skirts and pants, aprons, zil bags, pasties: New things that Ive made and have not had the time or desire to list and older things that have been in storage and will be sold for a song..........some will make great Xmas gifts. (And please dear Universe, don't make me have to haul this stuff around any longer!)

I have prices listed, but the higher ones are not necessarily fixed in stone. I am willing to dicker and if we can come to a happy place price-wise, its easy enough for me to take the item down and invoice you through paypal instead.

Consider it a bit of a clearance sale. I was thinking about putting the custom items up for sale in limited quantities - but that may have to wait until I move and settle in. It really got out of hand last time I had a sale!

I hate moving. I hate it, I hate it, I hate it - I love my roommate, I love Spike, I still love San Francisco, so for me to move AGAIN before 2 years are out means that things are just not working for me here. And if it isn't working for me, I cannot be efficient. And it means that I love where I am going........


So if you have been waiting on the fence to purchase something from me, I am in dickering mode at the moment. Please know that your purchase will bring me closer to my goal: to be efficient, to step up processing time on orders, to have room to grow and be creative, to help keep local, Indy business alive and well!

Thanks!!!!!
XXX
Kathleen

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

The Price We Pay

“If you think excellence costs too much, wait til you get the bill for mediocrity.”
— Benjamin Franklin

 

And that is all there needs to be said..................

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com 

Labor Of Love

Its been a while since Ive blogged - so much has been going on! Ive been vending and working on backorders and trying to get into the spirit of Christmas .......but only made it as far as Solstice!


First of all, my new little granddaughter was born last saturday. Ivy Skye. Fabulous name if I do say so myself! And she's awfully cute. Hopefully I'll go see her early next year.

I mentioned before, that I wasnt going to be making baby clothes. But I caved because of all the cute little vintage childrens' patterns out there. And the baby needs to be decked out. I mean, she just does.

I dug into my remnant bins and came up with a lovely grey/brown silk velvet that was used once several years ago to make a wedding coat for a lovely woman I know. I used a bit of blue silk velvet for the trims and bonnet. I made self covered buttons. I used up some of my bits and bobs and came up with a pretty cute little outfit. I wasnt sure if it would even fit as we usually pop out pretty big babies, but shes's a wee 7 pounds 14 oz. So no worries there. And worse case scenerio, she'll have doll clothes.

Then I took some scraps of Ariellah's wedding dress and made a little dress that resembles a christening gown, although that was not my intention. With a little china silk, I made a little slip - and there you go.......

And I vowed I would never do it again! (but Im always saying that about things) Its hard making baby clothes!!!!!! All those little pieces! Some of the pattern pieces were missing, so I did my best. Not so crazy about the neckline on the dress, but the directions on the pattern made no sense whatsover. Still, its pretty and the photos dont do it justice. I used this pattern for the coat and bonnet. The dress pattern seems to have disapeared. We didnt like each other!

Im sure I'll find the time down the road to make Ivy something cute now and then, but this was truely a labor of love! There is a reason these designer baby clothes cost so much in the boutiques!!!!!!



kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Sexy Severe

I bought this pattern on Etsy today. (its in my faves if you want to find the seller) I love the vintage pattern illustrations. This one grabbed me. Was it the red dress? The high neckline and somewhat sexy severe look? The ridiculously unreal wasp waist? The sleeve length? The fantabulously full skirt? The great cut?

All of the above. Another good basic for me to tweak and make into something fun one of these days!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Ode To Times Gone By

My brother has been working with my father to compile his memoirs into an interesting blog of note about times that came before and will never be again. Its a heap of memories and data about the old days on the prairie in South Dakota - growing up without electricity. Hungry wild cats trying to rip the roof off the sod house to get at whats inside, Native Americans, Cowboys, good guys and bad guys, The Great Depression, happiness, World Wars, a bit of Little House On The Prairie, a slice of American life, living with less and not knowing any different, the consciousness of the day for better or for worse.

I find it very interesting and Ive found out a lot about my dad that I didn't know before. Its odd that you can live with a person for 18 years and know so little about him. When I hear about how tough times are today - and they are for our modern sensibilities - I like to be reminded that perhaps we have too much and we don't appreciate the things we really really need. But I'm happy for this little island of family lore and for those with an interest of times gone by, you might enjoy!

Thunderbutte.com

Ode To Times Gone By

This Town Is Just Too Small Sometimes

I took the morning off from unpacking, arranging, and trying to figure out why I have so much stuff. I took a walk around the neighborhood and walked into Community Thrift - reminding myself that I had just made a pact with me, myself, and I that if I bring something into the house, two things have to go out.........so Im perusing the aisles and pulling out cute little dresses when lo and behold, there are two dresses on the rack that I just got rid of!!!!!!!!!

So does that count?

The Joy Of Thimble

I hate thimbles. I hate hand sewing with anything on my fingers. I prefer the feel of that needle on my skin. Its part of the fun. I can sew faster and with more efficiency without a piece of cumbersome metal or leather or whatever the finger protection method of the day is. I can manipulate the fabric or the trim or the thread. I am one with my needle and thread.

But the downside of this thrill of the needle is that my fingers get ripped to shreds. There is rarely a day that goes by that I dont have ripped finger tips.
Ive learned to live with it. My hands are so torn and burned by irons and glue guns, and sewing tools, that it will take several lifetimes before I can ever audition for the job of hand model.

I equate sewing with a thimble as one would with the necessity of wearing a helmet when on a bike or motorcycle. Helmets suck. Period. I mean, really ......have you ever worn one????? But they keep us safer.

(I was going to compare thimble sewing with wearing a condom during sex, but I thought I'd better quit while Im ahead.)

Ive tried every kind of thimble on the market. I hate them all. The metal, the leather, the glue on dots, the wraparounds - they slow me down. They make me crazy. I cant feel a thing. I sew without one. I take my chances. My fingers are trashed. I sew with abandon........

And then one day I walked into Britex and there before me was the thimble that changed my life.

I can sew with this rubber silicone thimble. I can somewhat feel the pressure of the needle. Im not annoyed, or slowed down very much. And the darned thing stays on. (you know what Im talking about - wink wink) So far, the needle has not penetrated my skin. No blood has flowed in weeks. I only have a little cut on my index finger - and who the hell knows where that came from - not from a needle!

They are so pretty! They come in several sizes and a bunch of colors. I love them so much that Im going to buy a bunch of them, line them up, and gaze adoringly at them. Just because..........
I think Im in love.

You can buy them at Britex, or:
craftconn.com
quiltbus.com


kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Time For Me Today

I must sew only for myself today. Im making this for my Fairie Godmother outfit tomorrow. I have it cut out and I didnt make a mock up first like I always scold people to do.

See.......Im just as bad as everyone else when it comes to making myself something because WHO HAS THE TIME for all the little steps involved!!!!!!!!!!!
LOL!

I will say, though, that I cut it a little bigger for extra seam allowance and swing in the skirt. I also wanted the peplum to look like the illustration, so I cut the pieces wider. I also want the front bodice to be a little lower at the top near the neck. So we'll see..........

I'll post a pic if it turns out!

Vintage Patterns....And Why They Dont Turn out

I subscribe and sometimes comment on Sew Retro. I think its a fabulous blog because its all about people using and making things out of vintage/retro patterns. And I think its fascinating how these garments turn out.

Long ago, in a Galaxy far, far away, I recall racks and racks of vintage house dresses in every conceivable size and style. I remember when the vintage stores on Broadway had little stores with walls draped with vintage velvet and lace dresses. I remember going to my favorite long gone boutique and buying a burgundy rayon velvet dress from the 40's for $40. That was a lot of money back then - but it was for a first date kind of thing with my future ex husband.

That wouldn't happen today. The closest you could come to would be Torso Vintage around these parts. And the prices are phenomenally high. And Ive never seen a dress there that beat the one I purchased long ago.

But I digress. What I wanted to talk about is how I see a lot of postings about how the dresses/skirts/suits........don't turn out like the illustrations on the pattern packages.

What made me think back on all the dresses I used to find so easily is that many of them were handmade and probably looked like shit on the wearer. Women sewed a hellofalot more back in the day before mass production in China, and probably were a lot poorer - think the FIRST depression - or had home ec training. (does anyone even know what that is anymore?)

My favorite late 80's - early 90's look was a vintage house dress and army boots. That's kinda still around, and coming back strong soon, but instead of the vintage knock off dresses, I was wearing the crumbling vintage dresses with that great jersey and aged cotton that is hard to find anymore. And the dresses were all handmade and ill fitting.

Part of the reason that outfits don't look like the pattern illustration is of course, the artists rendering of the style. Their job is to make the pattern sellable. Often the illustration is an exaggeration. And just like today, the body proportions are not correct.

Also, we forget that these garments were meant to be worn with the undergarments of the day. Those full skirts in the pattern need a crinoline or two and a girdle. Maybe a cone bra. They wont look the same without them.

Also, the pattern often has to be manipulated to look like the illustration. If you are not a size 0 like the pattern shows, you have to somehow turn that pattern into a size whatever you are and make it look right. Sleeves might have to be made wider or lengthened. Skirt fullness added, darts moved, bodices lengthened.

And all this requires a little skill that many a new modern sewer doesn't have.

So people get disappointed and give up. And that's a shame. But it takes patience to learn skills. And time. Mock ups should be made of the pattern first.

Right now, I'm making some vintage suit mock ups for a friend and then we will work out the details and the fit problems first. It takes time. Time = money. This is why it isn't cheap to make good clothes. But if you take your time to think things through and learn from the mistakes made along the way and take risks and do your historical research of the garment style you are making.......success will eventually be yours.

Sewing isn't easy.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

vintage reconstruction

Megan Strahm was married this summer in a vintage gown that she purchased at Retrofit. The dress was a bit too big in the bodice. The underskirt full of holes at the hem. The outer skirt of tulle was ripped to shreds in one part, but the rest of the dress was perfect.

I took in the bodice about 2" and was able to do this with impecable hand sewing rather than take the zipper out and put it back in. Logic says that taking out the zipper might be the better solution for such an alteration, and on many a garment that may be so..... but the old fabric and lace could easily have been comprimised. They used little teeny tiny stitches back in the day. Unlike todays sloppy mass production and longer stitch lengths. It had several layers in the bodice, so with some deft stitchery I was able to keep it looking like I hadnt done a thing to it.

I cut off the lining along the bottom and hemmed it a little shorter thus losing the rips and tears.

And then I searched around town and even went to Lacis in Berkeley to see if I could find some vintage tulle to replace the tattered parts of the outer skirt. Couldnt find the right stuff at all and so where did I find the perfect solution? Some tulle at Darlenes on Mission st. It wasnt vintage, but it was close enough and nobody knew the difference.

We toyed with the idea of just ditching the skirt altogether and making a new one. But I and some friends who saw the dress figured that the old designers really knew how to enhance a woman's figure - and the line of the lace made the wearer look taller and leaner. I love saving these garments. Im glad we saved this one.

So her dress turned out perfect. It turned out that a friend of hers had just been at a wedding of the woman who's dress I had made from a family heirloom tablecloth and napkins. Im hoping to get a photo of that dress soon as it looked spectacular on the bride!

Well, dont they all look spectacular, but it does my heart proud to see these ladies beaming in things Ive made or made to fit.

Congratulations Megan!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Sew A Seam

I yearn for simpler times!

kathleen.crowley@yahoo.com
http://www.kathleencrowley.etsy.com

The Makings of Costume Ball Glamour

Lori King came to me with a project that I couldnt refuse. She knew what she wanted and she was going to get it. I like that in a woman.

She wanted to wear something fabulous to the upcoming Edwardian Gorey Ball. She brought me a white acetate wedding dress that was found in a thrift store and a late Victorian jacket that was in fair condition, but the lining was shredding to bits - as they do.

I dyed the dress three times to get the right shade of purple. We knew we wouldnt be able to achieve the goal because of the fiber content, but we tried anyway and came up with a lovely violet. I chopped off the bodice and faced the waist of the skirt. I bustled it slightly and left a pretty little train.

My wonderful assistant, Unsinkable Molly was given the task of tenderly taking out the tattered lining, carefully reinforcing the stressed and frayed parts of the jacket with black lingerie fusing. I prefer using this type of fusing on delicate garments and textiles when I can because it adheres to the fabric quickly and with little effort. It just gives that little extra bit of strength and you cant really tell that its there. Then I copied the jacket and made a purple lining to insert in place of the original. This was a very difficult and delicate task and we spent many hours trying to improve and salvage this piece instead of destroying it. We succeeded.

Molly is reading her fortune......"you will earn much good karma and many future minions by being of service to others now".......

I made Lori a corset of black china brocade with a bee motif. It is a combination of the victorian and 18th century style. I added black beads to the upper arm.

She was stunning. And I made a new friend!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com