Aprons For One Of The 70 Best Restaurants In The World!

Last October, I was commissioned to find materials and create some oldie worldie looking aprons for a new Restaurant that was opening up in my favorite town in the whole wide world: Port Costa!

The aprons turned out really cute. The old time look and fee of the Hickory fabric that we found suited the time travel image that the owners of the Bull Valley Roadhouse were trying to convey. We made about 8 of these aprons for opening night and a few months later, they had become so busy that they needed more. But on returning to the source of the fabric purchase, I found out that someone had come along and bought up the rest of the roll! This is not unusual and kind of the story of my life, but I couldn't believe it. That bolt of fabric had been lying around the warehouse for years! After we got our 15 yards, the rest sold immediately. This happens to be how things work, I guess. I somehow , often manage to arrive at the scene of a burgeoning trend.

So I spent hours finding a source for more of this Hickory. This is the old workhorse fabric that the early train engineer's overalls were made of. This was a very utilitarian fabric that is still being made in the U.S.A but is mainly used now for designer jeans. It isn't found in most retail outlets, so a bit of finagling had to be done. But we got our fabric.

And now my favorite town in the WHOLE WORLD is now home to one of the 70 best new restaurants in the WHOLE WORLD according to Conde Nast Traveler Magazine. Now how cool is that????????
I knew good things were in store for that town. And I'm here too, in the cute little town next door! So make an appointment to come out and see me and we'll make an appointment to go do brunch if you come out on a Saturday or Sunday. I fear it might be hard to get in sometimes, but we'll figure something out!

I'm so happy for Sam and Earl - the owners of this fine establishment! Not only are they extremely creative, but they are two of the nicest people that Ive ever met.

See you soon!

A Few Words About Quality

Here is a video made of my friend Erika who is a clothing whore   fashionista of the finest degree. She has impeccable taste and knows quality when she sees it. I made a Poiret inspired silk velvet opera coat for her wedding day, and Ive repaired some of her precious vintage. I do believe that the black fringie beribboned coat was one of the coats that she brought me to work on. There is nothing more exciting than keeping these old treasure alive and wearable! Here is her SF accessories boutique!


Erika Von Petrin for Stylelikeu.com from StyleLikeU on Vimeo.

Most people have no idea what goes into making clothing. They usually don't understand why certain garments cost so much when they are used to purchasing  mass produced clothing that can be worn and thrown away in a season or two. And with incomes going down and the cost of living going up, it is harder to justify purchasing expensive clothing.

Better clothing is usually more expensive because more time and money goes into its construction. But if you purchase things that are made better, they will generally last a lot longer with care. I have altered, repaired, and constructed many garments over the years. Ive worked on a lot of vintage clothing, which were usually made with better care and attention to detail. The ONE thing that I have seen with the older clothing in contrast with the newer clothing is that the older clothing is made with a much tinier stitch length. This has held these garments up to the test of time. The most time consuming part of repairing or altering these garments has been ripping out those tiny little stitches. They often do not rip out easily. Rarely do I see modern clothing sewn with tiny stitches. And it usually falls apart quickly with wear.

A garment of superior quality will look like more care and consideration was taken into its production. The first thing to do would be to go do some window shopping and inspect low priced garments and then compare them to higher priced garments. The item or items should stand out  above the inferior clothing. There may be more detail, seams will be straight or sewn with more care. Bust seams should be smooth with no puckering. Buttons are sewn on securely. Button holes should not be frayed. There will sometimes be smaller machine stitching in the foundation of the garment ( but this is a trend that has mainly died out due to manufacturing costs). Pockets flaps will lie flat. Lapels will lie flat. Inner seams may be bound with bias tape. Threads will be clipped. Linings and interlinings and padding may be used. There may be more curves to accommodate a female body Seam allowances will be clipped so that the seam lays flat against the body. More consideration may be taken into giving a hem or hemline that is flattering. Hems  should not pucker. There may be a bit more weight and drape to the garment. There may be bigger seam allowances to accommodate possible alterations. More finishing techniques may be used to add more life and structure to the clothing.  More thought will be taken in the actual design of the garment. Better fabrics will be used. The inside of the garment should look nice also. Try on the garments and see how they fit. See how they make you feel when they are on your body. There is a reason why some clothing makes you look and feel like a million bucks - much more time and thought went into its' making.

Have Yourself A Merry Little Disco Christmas

I have to admit, I went to discos, many guys looked like this, I didn't pass up a line, I dressed in vintage and velvet and lace, I fell off a platform shoe or two, I loved Freddy Mercury with all my heart, those were the days. No - they really were. It wont ever be like that again. But if you go to Retro Fit on Valencia, you'll find plenty to take you back to those times! At least you can pretend!

I don't have  a lot of free time for blogging right now. Orders have to go out and merchandise has to be made. Christmas is leaping at me and while Ive got my tree all up and decorated,  I'm not ready for it yet, I know I'm not alone in this...........but here's one for the road........

My body is screaming to hibernate. I'm pretty sure that because of the quiet around here, the darkness of winter, the short days, my body and mind have accessed that primal code that says huddle  around the fire and stay in the cave. I think that I'm going through the transitional phase of not being overly stimulated for a length of time - maybe  for the first time in over 20 years. Myself just doesn't know what to do with this new thing called peace and quiet. Myself just wants to go to sleep - and Me, Myself, and I are having a bit of a battle about it right now.

Well, I'm sure as I get used to my new surroundings and lifestyle, the body and mind will adjust. Its like being thrust back in time with severe jet lag. That's exactly what it feels like. (not that Ive ever been thrust back in time...but you know what Im sayin....)

And I have to admit that I have been on quite a ride for a long, long time. 

So Last weekend I went all bridge and tunnel on myself and went to my friend Matthew James' annual Christmas party. He has a new theme every season and works very hard all year to provide the environment and ambiance for his circle of friends to come hang out and be silly for a while. He makes a new tree every year, makes and glitters his ornaments, makes all the decorations. This year was Studio 54. And he did not disappoint! Maybe because of the theme and the fact that some of us were actually around to know what those times were like, it wasn't hard to throw something together and get into the swing of things. Even those who were not of that era did a good job of it. I had a really good time  and we all hearkened back to the day. Its not hard, really....the stereotypical collars and pants and wigs are all out there and clothing today is very heavily 70's themed. I saw a lot of short little jumpsuity things and drapey dresses. - very cute! Anyone remember Quiana?

Wigs transform. Can I just say that if I HAVE to come back again for another round of earth living. that I want to come back with a big blond mass of poodle hair!  Screw this pansy ass white girl thin hair shit...............some ancestry I say,  as I stomp my foot.

Steven LeMay, owner of Retrofit on Valencia St. was my date for the evening. He let me borrow his best fro wig, we donned our tossed- together -at -the -last -minute apparel, hopped into a Homobile, and headed to Matt's house. Despite my best efforts to buy or steal that wig, my efforts fell on deaf ears. There are no more to be found. And its his last one. Oh well. At least I got to borrow it.

All  had was my iphone for pics, but you get the gist. Merry Disco Christmas!

 

                                                                     Matt as Dig Diggler

The Stuff Of Dreams

I don't think we actually set out to create a fairy tale wedding, but it turned into one anyway! And why wouldn't it with these two. They have always had an air of drama and an otherworldly flair  about them. Im so glad they finally tied the knot!  It was the sweetest wedding, ever!

 I was lucky and honored to make the  wedding attire for my friends Lynne Rutter and Erling Wold.

For Lynne, I made a black taffeta "poufy dress"  with a scooped neckline. It was somewhat based on a fifties look with a twist. The fabric was fun as it never really wrinkles and it can be poufed out and stay that way - or be calmed down and stay that way. Thank you microfiber (or whatever the hell this fabric is!?!) I took apart the train from the wedding dress of her first marriage. It was a beautiful lightweight ivory silk and I made a jacket with this silk to go over the black  dress. The old wedding dress had English Cotton Netting used as a lining for the lace sleeves. So I took off the sleeves of the old dress and used the ECN as a lining for the bodice of the black dress. It worked out really well. We revamped the old dress a bit and now she can  put it up for auction on ebay. It will make a cuter than cute modern wedding dress now for some lucky lady! These new and remade garments will be worn many times again, which is great,  and the jacket was a bit "green", which made us both happy. I like being able to reuse materials when I can.  And for the marriage ceremony itself, I took loose weave scrim and made a blinged out fairy tale dress to go over her black gown. I didn't plan on focusing on any particular theme, but when I saw the set that Lynne was painting, I knew I was on the right track. She wore a tiara stuffed with her veil from the previous wedding - and voila! Classy lady turned into Fairy Empress!

 Here are I and my friend Erica (also wearing a silk velvet coat that I made for her wedding several years ago!) We were Lynne's attendants on stage and I am wearing a dress that I found in a thrift store - I threw it in a dye pot the day before! I'm also wearing my little Fluffie Bloomers. It was cuter in real life - really - bad photos.....and the camera adds pounds......right?

And those are vintage Fortuny drapes btw. Nice touch for the old Slovenian dance hall.

For Erling, I put ruffles on one of his red shirts, constructed a vest with epaulets that he could wear over   his tux and with his shirt later on. We thought something versatile, fun, and a little silly yet manly would give this party some extra drama! And I gave him a fancy cummerbund. We did buy some new trims, but I went into my stash and used a lot of what I had - and I was glad to as I have way too much stuff!

Lynne is such an amazingly talented woman. Well, they both are extraordinarily creative, but Lynne just whipped out this set in a few days. It was magical. Here is the black and white outfit. I swear I'm going to get some good photos. She was simply stunning, but I'm in the mood to blog and I couldn't wait! However, not too bad for an iphone. I maybe should have waited to take pictures before I started sipping the whiskey though.

Here is Lynne in the background with her black and white outfit. I'm praying for some better photos down the line. In the foreground is Erica in a Poiret inspired coat that I made for her wedding several years ago. This was a beautiful taupe silk velvet from Thai Silks in Los Altos. Why am I giving you my source? Because its where you should go for your silk. Period. Except that I just found out that if you need heavy stretch silk in colors, Silk Road in Oakland is the place to go. Good to know, because I thought they were gone. Lynne etched this pattern on the back of the coat. Awesome as always.

I just finished a wedding dress yesterday for my nephew's fiance'. So these projects and Tribal Fest royally kicked my ass. I feel as though Ive been running a marathon for two months! I'm again behind in getting orders out the door, but most everything will be done next week and I'm not going to feel guilty about it. Its all cut and bundled or partially put together. I was able to breathe this last week and actually have a little fun again. All work and no play make Kathleen really hard to deal with. I'll take Memorial Day off as well. Shock. Nuff said.

So next week is going to be filled with getting caught up again, answering all those messages and emails, dealing with all those stacks of paperwork piling up around me and just getting enough sleep.

Sleep, blessed sleep!

P.S. You should contact me as early as a year in advance for your wedding attire as Spring is when I am busiest! And it can take me a while to get back to you - although I'm working on that!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

My Funny Valentine

I received this in the mail this morning after being on the phone - on the street - for 2 hours - trying to get At&T to let me out of my contract because of the horrible, horrible service that I get (or I should say, service that I dont get) I live in a dead zone, but thats another story. This made me laugh so hard that I ended up sobbing......in a good way!

I had posted on Facebook a while back that I am upgrading my expectations in a man to a more Sir Sean Connery type.

Happy Valentine's Day everyone! Im taking this as a thumbs from the universe!

(thank you, Shelby!! XXX)

Have A Very Fluffie Christmas!

Merry Christmas Everyone! Whatever you believe in, I hope you have a lovely day!

I personally opted out of the commercialism and toxic family functions years ago and choose to either spend it by myself or with good friends. Its a day of peace and quiet for me. I'll read and work on a dance costume for me today.

I finally got my Dickens outfit together and attended the Faire this year with my friend Erling. This was a huge accomplishment as I never have time for these things anymore. And I'm so glad I did. It wasn't quite as merry as I remember it from the old days (is anything ever), but it was merry enough and I had a good time. They do such a lovely job of giving us an old time Christmasie world for a month out of the year! A literal Christmas card event! It always helps to go with a dapper man with manners as well. I would love to vend there. It would be great if Salome's Suitcase could get in. I know we would be a hit. Well, I'll try to make it happen. Now THAT would be a blast!

And for those of you who have no idea who Salome's Suitcase is, we are a collective of adornment and apparel artists. We are united by a focus on unique design and quality craftsmanship!
We are:
Black Lotus Clothing
FoolProof Studios
HiBeam Bindis
Katherine Summer
KathleenCrowleyCostumeCouture
Medina Maitreya
Minerva's Antenna
Rosehips Designs
Yasemin Yildiz

Contact us at: salomes.suitcase@gmail.com

Since my room mate is in Egypt right now, riding camels and all that fun stuff, I kind of didn't want to make a fuss with decorating. It seemed like a bother. But my friend Matt dragged a fake tree over on Christmas Eve that he had found in a box on the street.
I felt the spirit of Christmas take over and lead me to my box of decorations and my hand was forced to decorate this tree with scraps of fluffie Lace. Leave it to me to have a fluffie tree! I love it! Merry Christmas!

Manly Corsets

Manly corsets.
They are not just for women
Nor have they ever been.
Men have worn corsets
Down throughout the centuries
As they are in truth as vain
as women and must
show off their manly figures
In the best light.

Erling Wold.
He is such a multi-dimensional
Peacock.
And shows off a corset better than most.

These are some photos of a shoot we did with Kristine Adams a few months back.
It was hard to pick which ones to show
As they were all amazing.
It must be nice to be so photogenic.
I'm not jealous or anything.

Something like this would be nice for the Edwardian Ball.
Hint, hint.............

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Gunslinger Wold

Erling, Kristine, and I had a little photo shoot a couple weeks ago and I finally got some shots of the coat and trousers that I made for him a while back. I would like to take credit for the vest, but that was purchased in Europe. Yes, you could tell.....
However, I have made many a fine man's vest and can make you one too.

This shot reminds me a bit of the Wild, Wild Gunslinger West.

Model: Erling Wold
Photo: Kristine Adams

Kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Mordake part two .....An Opera by Erling Wold

I'm working on more costumes for Mordake.This is a solo performance with tenor John Duykers. Today I made John a long night shirt based on the Folkwear Missouri River Boatman's Shirt. I made this shirt years ago for what I cannot remember, It is very simple, but of course something didn't seem right so I had to dig around for the directions which were in one of my bazillion pattern boxes. Lo and behold, there was a missing piece which was no where to be found so I improvised and actually like my version much better. Sometimes the pieces get sucked into the void.

I'm such a pattern whore. I love having a pattern library to refer to when I need to - it has been one of my passions. And one day, I'll have a pattern line of my very own to sell to other pattern whores. I feel so maternal about this. I must pass this pattern disease on......

Yes, indeed. But back to Mordakes's shirt. I trimmed it out with some vintage lace that I had stashed away. it was already stained and trashed and perfect for a lonely crazy man tucked away in his mansion of yore.

This is a story based on Mordake, the wealthy, brilliant aristocrat who was born with the face of a woman - his twin sister - on the back of his head. Well, you can imagine the drama this would create in one's life. Very like a Gemini, I would imagine. Not that I would know anything about that.

Everyone is working hard on this production. Jobs and responsibilities are being juggled. There wont be a lot of costume changes, but I want everything to look worn and opulent - lots of layers to suit the music and Frieder Weiss's visuals. It will be part of the San Francisco International Arts Festival in May. Thats May this month. I cant believe it is May already.

The final product will be an amazing collaboration of brilliance. You can see painting s of the set here.

No Tribal Fest this year for me. I decided today that I cant handle any more work than I already have. I was going to try to go for it and share a booth with someone. But I would rather do it right next year instead of half-assed this year. I would rather Mordake be as fabulous as possible.

Mordake as seen at Theater Bay Area this month.

More info can be found on Erlings' Blog.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

The Corvest

I was commissioned by Jen to make a corset vest for her boyfriend, Jon. It was for the Edwardian Ball and they wanted something that he would be able to wear on many occasions. We call it a Corvest because it is very like a vest, except that it is boned - with a front busk and it laces up the back. I do believe he loves it because he has been seen out in it since! And he is absolutely handsome and so debonaire in it!

He picked a black chinese brocade with a red design - chrysanthemums. The back is a black satin.

Here he is with Jen. I had to throw in a photo of the two of them with Jill Tracey because they all just look fabulous together!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

The Cost Of Making Or Buying Costumes

Here is an article I stumbled on last night that says it all for any of us who make or create things of quality and value. I constantly get asked how much it would cost to make something like in this photo. And when I give a rough quote, I am always surprised at the sticker shock. Like I could actually make this for $300.00. I know you all suffer from this........I wish we had a way to band together and get some uniform pricing, but that would be pretty difficult. And I'm sure that's why it hasn't been done yet. That I know of anyway. Great article at any rate. And this doesn't apply to everyone of course. I am so very appreciative of everyone who gets how much things cost and why and want to support me and do.

The Cost of Making or Buying Costumes

MORDAKE

If anyone was attempting to try to get a coherent word from me last week, it was because I was sick with that hideous cold with sniffles and sneezing that never stops and I was working on a costume for the teaser of this magnificent work of art that showed the other night to a packed house.
Go see this. Its amazing.

MORDAKE will premiere at Shotwell Studios (3252-A 19th Street, San Francisco)
International Arts Festival, from the 21st of May through the 8th of June 2008.
For the latest info. visit mordake.com or call 415-399-9554



One of the weirdest as well as most melancholy stories of human deformity is that of Edward Mordake, said to have been heir to one of the noblest peerages in England. He never claimed the title. He lived in complete seclusion refusing the visits even of the members of his own family. He was a man of fine attainments, a profound scholar, and a musician of rare ability. His figure was remarkable for its grace, and his face--that is to say, his natural face--was that of an Antinous. But upon the back of his head was another face, that of a beautiful girl, 'lovely as a dream, hideous as a devil.' The female face was a mere mask, 'occupying only a small portion of the posterior part of the skull, yet exhibiting every sign of intelligence, of a malignant sort, however.' It would be seen to smile and sneer while Mordake was weeping. The eyes would follow the movements of the spectator, and the lips would 'gibber without ceasing.' No voice was audible, but Mordake avers that he was kept from his rest at night by the hateful whispers of his 'devil twin,' as he called it, 'which never sleeps, but talks to me forever of such things as they only speak of in hell.

Music Erling Wold
Libretto Douglas Kearney
Director Melissa Weaver
Starring John Duykers
Production matt:matt
Costumes Kathleen Crowley
Drawings Lynne Rutter
Extra sounds Thom Blum
The Mother Diana Pray

Photo: Matt:Matt

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Now Thats What Im Talkin About

Mmmmhmmmmm. Erling does it again in one of my creations. High standing collar and cuffs of cotton velvet. Double breasted. Velvet welted button holes and velvet covered buttons down the front. The coat is long to the ankle with pockets galore. Red satin lining. Yellow fleur-de-lis with a touch of red splashed about the outer fabric. A Dapper Dandy's Dream!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Frock Me!!!!!

Wool Cashmere frock coat and trousers using Laughing Moon Mercantile pattern #109. I did my best to get a better pic from the guy, but just like a bride after the wedding, I found it hard to get him to deal with it afterwards. He was the groom - so there you go. I'm sure there is something floating around somewhere............will post when I have the time to chase the man down! He was very lovely aside from that!

but it was splendid on him! I lined it in grey silk. We made him a silk cravat. We gave him a silk brocade vest. Yummy!!!!!!

This would be perfectomundo for Dickens Faire!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Living Outside The Box

While these are not professional quality photos by any means, you can see what a corset will do for a man's physique!

Erling Wold showed me a photo of a leather corset - like vest that Tupac was modeling. We fashioned this on the same idea, only we used a black brocade instead. We gave it adjustable straps that snap in front. Instead of buttons, we used a front busk and laced it up the back. The vest still has the classic useable front pockets and under a jacket, gives the look of a "modern" waistcoat. This is a perfect addition to the wardrobe of a man who refuses to live inside the box. You get a waistcoat and vest all in one.

Erling, we are going to have to grab you and all your fabulous garb and have ourselves a proper photoshoot. These cheap prints cannot do justice to your spendor! (but I really like the velvet painting!)

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com