Pattern Whores Of The World, Unite!

This recent Fluffie Rufflie Pattern Pre-Sale was hugely successful and Ive got reams of these patterns being printed up again! My next step is to actually go and do more homework to package and print them up in a more professional way. I really should say that I would like them to look a certain way, and they do not look that way yet. But they are perfect for what you need them to do at this point in time. And I must put my nose to the grindstone and  learn that whole PDF file pattern thing. I don't want to mess with it for larger garments, but for smaller things like hats, vests, corsets.............that learning curve I can handle for now.

I will admit that I had qualms at first about selling my patterns because I'm kind of a control freak about my work and these Fluffie Rufflies were my babies. But the fact is that unless you have garments made in some kind of quantity and at a price-point that is "affordable", you are going to have to make the same garment over and over again as long as the market wants it - if you are DIY like me. You will burn out. And I want people to be sewing and making things. So this makes me feel good about selling patterns. I WANT to continue to be making things that I like to make, and I WANT you all to do the same thing! Pattern Whores of the world Unite!

This is Laurie Lulu Martin wearing a pair of the Fluffie Rufflie Pantaloons that she made from my pattern. You can make them as long or as short as you prefer. You can make them in any fabrics that work for you. You can wear them to dance in or to travel in, as Laurie here is doing. They are romantic and comfortable and feminine. Adorable and functional. Win!

As soon as Ive got my pre-sale pattern orders all packed up and mailed out, I'll be listing both available styles on Etsy. See you there!!

Hunkering Down For The Winter

 Salome's Suitcase (the design collective that I am proud to be a part of) put on a wonderful fashion show at Ariellah Affalo's Shadowdance this last Saturday evening. Pictures will be out soon and I'll be putting them here as soon as I can.

As usual for me,  a big evening or weekend of vending requires a day or two of down time afterwards. Coupled with a fashion show, and I'm left just beat. But I was so wound up still after the day of our show, that I rearranged my whole studio! Its not perfect yet, but I'm ready to receive callers, KCCC is available to take on new commissions, I'm inspired to continue the process of getting out orders, and this lady is all ready to hunker down for the winter and stay warm and cozy. I want some wedding dresses to work on this winter, so I have been doing a bit of advertising. I'm hoping that with my studio conveniently located between SF and Napa, I can attract some business from all over. Its perfect! I'll make you tea!

Shadowdance was great - I didn't see much of the show as I was running around backstage, but all of our models were just wonderful. Jessica Cowan from Crops and Bobbers in Crockett did the most amazing hair and makeup - our show was fiercely elegant. Everyone pulled together, worked well together as always, and I could hear the jaws drop to the floor when the music started and the models walked their walk. Mission accomplished!

Halloween is over, winter is on its way, turkeys will be roasting in the ovens before we know it and Christmas will be here in the blink of an eye!
Its time now to start working on my patterns. I will be debuting them at Cues and Tattoos in March.
I'll be vending at the SF Edwardian Ball in January. Ive got new merchandise to make and fabric to buy! Ive got stuff to do!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kc.costumecouture@gmail.com
Model: Unsinkable Molly
Photos: Kristine Adams

1860's Skirt Turned Inside Out

I showed the bodice earlier that goes with this skirt. I turned it inside out to show how it had been constructed - by hand.

Here is the matching skirt turned inside out. It is attached to a lined waistband using the cartridge pleats that enabled so much fabric to be sew onto a small waistband. Much smaller than our normal waistbands today - as a rule.

 

 

The polished cotton used to flatline the skirt body is a common one that Ive seen used frequently then.
There is one long pocket at one side. And there is a an open section on the other side of the lining. Maybe there was supposed to be another pocket? Maybe an inner unattached pocket tied around her waist - I dont know........

 

 

A little hem was turned up at the floor, over the lining.
A little piece of fabric is falling off at the hooks on the waistline.
All sewn by hand.

This has little to do with garment construction - but it is about proportion. I hear smaller women complaining all the time that they cannot wear things that a larger woman might be able to wear. Wide legged pants for example. This is all about proportion and how you cut the garment to work on your particular body. A smaller woman wouldnt use as much fabric - the pants might be cut a tad less wide  for her size. Its also how you would wear them and with what. Take these bell shaped skirts and pagoda sleeves. These were generally worn by smaller women - but they are proportioned to be worn in a flattering way. A corset and petticoats, a corset cover, a bonnet. This is a lot of stuff to haul around. But the cut of the jacket and the shape of the skirt are very lovely on.

Now I, who am almost 6 ft. tall,  can look like a moose in a skirt when I'm wearing this style if Im not careful. I take up an awful lot of room. I still love this era and love to dress up, but I don't usually make my skirts quite as full - so as not to run everyone over when I walk around. Well, sometimes ........but its all about the proportion. And I feel a little strange when my dress is way huger than everyone else's. (unless thats my goal)

Victorian Bodice From The Inside Out

So here is my Victorian bodice that I scored for a song in Albuquerque - turned inside out! And Im showing this inside out, so that you can see how this was made. We take for granted our sewing machines and clothing made for pennies in China. This woman didnt even have a sewing machine. She made her outfit by hand. One stitch at a time. Or she was a costumer over 50 years ago and was striving for historical accuracy. Somehow I doubt that though.

Ive looked extensively for examples of vintage garment construction online and it is either treated as some kind of guarded secret, or Im just not looking in the right places. There are tons of books out there now on this subject, but I still find that actually looking at the garment tells you loads more. Im sure most old dresses are just too delicate to be turned inside out like this, but I did it anyway and the dress is fine. It really does look like it was just pulled out of the closet. The sales tag said it was from the 1860's. It could be a bit earlier. It could be a costume that someone made, but the fabric is so old, that I think its the real deal. I can tell by the lining. Someone chime in here if I'm wrong!!!!

 

  

  

  

I just love the old hooks and eyes!

There are 5- 4.5" bones in the front of the bodice. One is placed at the very front, over the "eyes" at the waist. The very front bone is encased in the same polished cotton as the lining. The remaining 4 bones are encased in the front darts. Whenever possible, the selvedge was turned over onto the inner lining as a facing. All seams are hand sewn. There are little almost invisible basting stitches in the seams. and some of the darts were stitched so that they would lie flat.

I'm sorry for my poor quality photos - a new camera is much needed! 

The cobalt blue silk facing was flat lined with the polished cotton. Ive seen this cotton used as lining many times, I just dont recall seeing things faced this nicely. But this is obviously just me being ignorant. As my friend Monique Motil say's........."if they coulda, they woulda". 

This facing is stitched down so nicely - I had to double check and make sure that it hadnt really been done by machine. Nope. All. By. Hand. And it was pieced as to use the fabric wisely and not extravegantly.

The seams are all whip-stitched to cut down on fraying. And at first I thought that this was just a simple little costume. But the pagoda sleeves are inset with a teeny tiny piping - as is the neckline! This is such a lovely finish and adds body and dimension to the overall effect. 

Also, I thought the buttons were made from the same cloth, but they are not. Nice match!

 

  

  

 

 

I'll post the inside of the skirt next. Im sure most of us have seen petticoats up close and personal, but I'll show that too, for fun! 

kc.costumecoutre@gmail.com 

My Victorian Score

I mentioned in a post earlier that I had found a dress and petticoat in an antique store that is dated as having been made in the 1860's. The corded petticoat and 2 piece dress were a steal. I thought it had to be a mistake and picked it up and started carrying it around. Then I thought about it and put it back. It couldn't be real at that price. Then I showed it to one of my friends and they thought I'd be nuts to not get it, so I figured that even as a good replica, it was a great score!

It was probably someone's good visiting  dress, I'm sure. The gown is in almost perfect condition. The outer and inner fabric looks barely worn. Usually the silk linings are shattered from the weight of the garments and the environmental conditions it was stored in. The outer fabric doesn't look faded at all.

If this is about 150 years old, its in great shape - maybe the fact that it was in the desert of New Mexico helped to preserve it. It smells like that good old fashioned trunk-in-the-attic mustiness. Its got the old hook and eyes, boning, and little tiny stitches - all done by hand. Only a die-hard costumer/preservationist would attempt this now. These are the stitches that I try to emulate when I do handwork. But even I, who loves to sit and do handwork cannot replicate these. Ive seen much finer stitches on the nicer garments......but still.......

This dress is way too small to fit even the smallest of my friends, so I had to drape it onto my mannequin the best I could. I thought I would take some photos of the inside, as well, to show how it was made. I'll do this in several posts.

 

 

So this was a super fun find for me and a lovely example of good old fashioned everyday dressmaking!

Pardon my poor photography. This camera just flew out of my hands and broke the other day - so I guess its time to upgrade!

I'll post pictures of this turned inside out soon!

Have A Very Fluffie Christmas!

Merry Christmas Everyone! Whatever you believe in, I hope you have a lovely day!

I personally opted out of the commercialism and toxic family functions years ago and choose to either spend it by myself or with good friends. Its a day of peace and quiet for me. I'll read and work on a dance costume for me today.

I finally got my Dickens outfit together and attended the Faire this year with my friend Erling. This was a huge accomplishment as I never have time for these things anymore. And I'm so glad I did. It wasn't quite as merry as I remember it from the old days (is anything ever), but it was merry enough and I had a good time. They do such a lovely job of giving us an old time Christmasie world for a month out of the year! A literal Christmas card event! It always helps to go with a dapper man with manners as well. I would love to vend there. It would be great if Salome's Suitcase could get in. I know we would be a hit. Well, I'll try to make it happen. Now THAT would be a blast!

And for those of you who have no idea who Salome's Suitcase is, we are a collective of adornment and apparel artists. We are united by a focus on unique design and quality craftsmanship!
We are:
Black Lotus Clothing
FoolProof Studios
HiBeam Bindis
Katherine Summer
KathleenCrowleyCostumeCouture
Medina Maitreya
Minerva's Antenna
Rosehips Designs
Yasemin Yildiz

Contact us at: salomes.suitcase@gmail.com

Since my room mate is in Egypt right now, riding camels and all that fun stuff, I kind of didn't want to make a fuss with decorating. It seemed like a bother. But my friend Matt dragged a fake tree over on Christmas Eve that he had found in a box on the street.
I felt the spirit of Christmas take over and lead me to my box of decorations and my hand was forced to decorate this tree with scraps of fluffie Lace. Leave it to me to have a fluffie tree! I love it! Merry Christmas!

Dickens Costume

I woke up this morning with my now rare sinus headachie migrainie thing that makes me have to stay in bed or throw up. But it got better and I went to work - because thats how I am. But I decided to take it easy today and I'll work on my Dicken's outfit that Ive been trying to make for the last 5 years or so. Its all about me today and the rest of you will have to wait.

And I dont mean that in a mean, nasty wretched way. I just really need to make myself something.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Antique Velvet

I'm kind of stumped about the velvet on the Victorian bodice. It was taken such good care of - it was living in a museum archive in England and then returned and wrapped in acid free paper. It was part of a family collection and has made its way into my studio so that I can touch it and treasure it for a couple weeks before it makes its way back home. It was the ugly duckling of the collection, and so it was much more expendable should something go wrong. We even thought about turning it into a dance vest, but it seems a shame to wreck it, so I'll just make one from scratch.

It looks almost new. I checked it out carefully to see if maybe someone had recovered it, but the threads and stitching and backing look period. Someone obviously at some point tried to turn it into something else - added newer trim and some kind of red wool facing. But if it were for a show or a play, I doubt they would have gone to so much trouble to replace the outer cover and the purple silk. They more than likely wouldn't have replaced that boning and front inner padding so deliberately.

One of my most favorite things to do is to check out the innards of garments and see how they were put together. I remember once when a friend of mine was modeling for one of Thierry Mugler's trunks shows back in the day. I got to inspect some of his suits. There is a reason why some things cost an arm and a leg................sheer genius. Another friend of mine ended up making some clothes for him, so it was fun to discuss craftsmanship. I hope these skills become more appreciated again one day. Well, one can hope.

So it is always fun for me to check things out up close and personal. And I'm hoping that I can go overseas next year and visit my friend and wallow in the joy of opening up the trunks of pristine Regency and Victoriana that are waiting for a new home. Another museum perhaps? I hope I can get there first!

If anyone reading this has any comments on the condition of this bodice and if this is the original velvet or not, feel free to comment!! Ive just never seen any old velvet in such pristine condition before! Ive never held it in my hands!

Kc.costumecouture@gamil.com

Autumn Colors

I saw this on ebay today and I almost swooned. These old gowns are spectacular! This pagoda style sleeve and the whole silhouette has been speaking to me of late. The colors of the dress say to me that summer is just about over. I guess I may actually attend Dicken's Faire this year as I am bound and determined to finish my costume finally after all these years. I am the classic example of the term "the cobblers children have no shoes". I get busier and busier and find less and less time for myself. But this must change. If there is a Dickens Faire this year, that is! Im so out of the loop! I'll finish it and wear it regardless!

Changes are a brewing though, I can tell....fall is almost here. We have finally been having our summer, but I see the fog rolling in over the city today and I am relieved. It was too hot. If we had a chance to get used to it, I'm sure it would be great. But with temperature drops on and off, it wipes us out.

Last month was very bizarre. Water, water everywhere flooding my business and making things hard and frustrating for the homeowner. Intense stuff all about. Water symbolizes the emotions and everything seemed out of hand. That's getting fixed.

I'm still loving all the lace and frills abounding in my life. It takes the edge off the hardness of modern life. Its all symbolic to me.

So with the cooler weather approaching and the need to escape modern life, I will concentrate on finishing the ever undone Dicken's outfit. And hopefully, my little southern civil war school marm dress will materialize as well. Part of the problem has been that my corsets don't fit me any longer and I need some new ones. So that has to be done first, and fortunately, I am so in the mood for some corset building!

These sleeves are so gorgeous! The cotton netting that I never see anymore. I have not really searched for it for a while and maybe Britex has it - I would love to make so many things out of it. I think sheers will be popular soon. And that will make me happy!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

This Thing Called Steampunk

I first recall the term when my intern, Unsinkable Molly, started talking about it. I dont get out much these days with all my projects and such - so I wasn't understanding what she was really talking about at first. It just sounded like what Ive been doing or trying to do for like the last 20 years.

So now I get it. Its what I would look like and have often looked like sans goggles ,leather straps, and ray guns. (Although I have a picture of myself in silver cowgirl gear with goggles and a red ray gun for Matthew James's infamous Space Christmas party) It is the aesthetic that kept me from getting myself a computer up until a few years ago. I cant stand the sight of them. They are the ugliest man made thing that we have ever concocted. That and all the creepy streamlined souless devices that we require now to make our lives more complicated, stressful, and spiritually bankrupt.

I was dragged into the computer age by Carolena Nericcio- director of FatChanceBellyDance because it was increasingly difficult to get class/gig info to/from me as I refused to get a computer.

Once I got over my revulsion, I found I loved the instant gratification it gave me and I was able to grow my business and reach people from around the world. That in and of itself was fun, entertaining and amazing. But it was still the sterility and ugliness of this intellectual world that kept me hidden away. I cant abide it. But I do. I deal.

However, if the techno age had started like this photo portrays..............I would have jumped on the bandwagon. Hell, I may have joined the throngs of millions who flocked to this world and made buttloads of money off of it.

This will just have to do.


Will do endless trade for this computer!

kathleencrowley.etsy.com

kc.costumecouture

The Corvest

I was commissioned by Jen to make a corset vest for her boyfriend, Jon. It was for the Edwardian Ball and they wanted something that he would be able to wear on many occasions. We call it a Corvest because it is very like a vest, except that it is boned - with a front busk and it laces up the back. I do believe he loves it because he has been seen out in it since! And he is absolutely handsome and so debonaire in it!

He picked a black chinese brocade with a red design - chrysanthemums. The back is a black satin.

Here he is with Jen. I had to throw in a photo of the two of them with Jill Tracey because they all just look fabulous together!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

MORDAKE

If anyone was attempting to try to get a coherent word from me last week, it was because I was sick with that hideous cold with sniffles and sneezing that never stops and I was working on a costume for the teaser of this magnificent work of art that showed the other night to a packed house.
Go see this. Its amazing.

MORDAKE will premiere at Shotwell Studios (3252-A 19th Street, San Francisco)
International Arts Festival, from the 21st of May through the 8th of June 2008.
For the latest info. visit mordake.com or call 415-399-9554



One of the weirdest as well as most melancholy stories of human deformity is that of Edward Mordake, said to have been heir to one of the noblest peerages in England. He never claimed the title. He lived in complete seclusion refusing the visits even of the members of his own family. He was a man of fine attainments, a profound scholar, and a musician of rare ability. His figure was remarkable for its grace, and his face--that is to say, his natural face--was that of an Antinous. But upon the back of his head was another face, that of a beautiful girl, 'lovely as a dream, hideous as a devil.' The female face was a mere mask, 'occupying only a small portion of the posterior part of the skull, yet exhibiting every sign of intelligence, of a malignant sort, however.' It would be seen to smile and sneer while Mordake was weeping. The eyes would follow the movements of the spectator, and the lips would 'gibber without ceasing.' No voice was audible, but Mordake avers that he was kept from his rest at night by the hateful whispers of his 'devil twin,' as he called it, 'which never sleeps, but talks to me forever of such things as they only speak of in hell.

Music Erling Wold
Libretto Douglas Kearney
Director Melissa Weaver
Starring John Duykers
Production matt:matt
Costumes Kathleen Crowley
Drawings Lynne Rutter
Extra sounds Thom Blum
The Mother Diana Pray

Photo: Matt:Matt

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Sweet Dicken's Costume

I think I took this from a retired Simplicity pattern. The skirt was calling for elastic. Naturally I was horrified and pleated the skirt onto a waistband. This was made quite some time ago and I just cannot remember all the details that went into these costume. I made it look a bit more accurate than the pattern would have suggested. (well, that was always the case back in the day - now there are some pretty nice patterns out there that do the trick!) I made Janet's outfit and Vaughn's vest.
Janet and Vaughn - ready for Dicken's Faire. So sweet!

Kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Now Thats What Im Talkin About

Mmmmhmmmmm. Erling does it again in one of my creations. High standing collar and cuffs of cotton velvet. Double breasted. Velvet welted button holes and velvet covered buttons down the front. The coat is long to the ankle with pockets galore. Red satin lining. Yellow fleur-de-lis with a touch of red splashed about the outer fabric. A Dapper Dandy's Dream!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

In Honor of Dickens Faire Season

I would KILL to get my hands on fabric like this!!!!!

Just thought I would share some photos that I collected for inspiration! This is my goal .....to finish my Dickens Faire Costume that I have been working on forEVER!!!!! I am always working on everyone Else's projects instead of mine. Its like the doctor with the sick children ..... my projects take to the back shelf. I'm not complaining......I love my life. Instead of traveling this year, I think I should take the time and $$$ required for recreation and just finish the things that I have started and actually let everyone see up close and personal that of which I am capable.

:)

These pics are from a recent auction. Its a basic shape for mid 19th century, but I love the side view and esp. the pleating in the back - and the vibrant color. That purple watermark fabric is killing me! The dresses this woman had collected were just amazing.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Frock Me!!!!!

Wool Cashmere frock coat and trousers using Laughing Moon Mercantile pattern #109. I did my best to get a better pic from the guy, but just like a bride after the wedding, I found it hard to get him to deal with it afterwards. He was the groom - so there you go. I'm sure there is something floating around somewhere............will post when I have the time to chase the man down! He was very lovely aside from that!

but it was splendid on him! I lined it in grey silk. We made him a silk cravat. We gave him a silk brocade vest. Yummy!!!!!!

This would be perfectomundo for Dickens Faire!

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com

Santa

As much as I liked the old guy...he got away without a full on photo.

kc.costumecouture@gmail.com